Im working on a friends T56. The input shaft was worn, and the pilot bearing was almost completely gone. Ive got a new input shaft, and both new timkin bearings and races to go along with it. The old main bearing (larger one) had 2 shims between the race and the front cover, and one of the shims was worn from the race turning. The local tranny shop where I bought the input shaft and shims said to put it back together the way it came apart. I did. But there seems to be more play than normal. In the book it says to put the tranny up on end, and the up and down play of the input shaft should be .000-.002". This "feels" to be a little more than that. But the thing im worried about is that when the tranny is horizontal, you can move the shaft up and down. I dont remember mine doing that

Im hoping I dont have to take that race out and add a shim. I ***** punched and locktited that damn thing in there. It took several tons of pressure from a press to get it in there. It wont turn now I wonder if it would hurt to shim the little bearing on the other side?

Any comments or suggestions?

 

I just went through something similar. I had to punch and loctite 3 races that were loose. If you replaced bearings you need to reshim the box ...period. The input shaft will move with with force even at .000 endplay and will move quite a bit with .002. mine was loose too and it also hogged out my pilot bushing! Good luck getting the loctited race out too !!! You may have to end up drilling 2 1/8 holes behind the race to knock it out with a punch then tap and seal them with set screws. Ask me how I know And BTW the t56 manual has you putting preload on the countershaft AFTER you set the mainshaft/input endplay. This is backwards. Do the countershaft BEFORE you do the main/input. Otherwise if you set the input to 0 and set the counter to .002 preload you will end up with .001-.002 endplay on the input! Again ask me how I know . I spent hours doing bearings in mine. If you dont touch the countershaft shims then just do the input shaft. Sorry its so long I guess I got carried away. P.S. if you leave the endplay too lose it will eventually eat up the bearings.

 

I wasnt about to pull that race out. Drilling holes like you say, and punching it out from the other side sounds like a great idea though

I just shimmed the smaller bearing on the other side of the input shaft, on the inner race. It was the only one I hadnt used locktite on yet I found a .007 shim that took up the play nicely. That will change the way the gears mesh slightly, but I dont think it will make that big of difference. There is probably still .002 or so in it, but this is an old worn tranny, so it dont need to be perfect. I think it has 230k+ miles. I didnt shim the countershaft. I didnt feel the need to make a special tool to check it I dont know why they made it so hard to check. I hope it isnt off too much. At least the input shaft is all good now, and shouldnt wear out the pilot bearing again

 

how did you get the race out of the input shaft without ruining it? I had to grind mine out! I have no idea why they didnt put the shims behind the races in the back of the maincase instead of in the front. Much easier to shim the box this way. I actually tried to find shims the right inside and outside diameter for the rear races but had no luck..

 

I had a new input shaft, and new bearings. I didnt shim the outter race though, I shimmed the inner race of the bearing on the other side. I had alreaty pressed the outter race in the input shaft.

Ok, time to spend some time in the garage. I was just checking in to get some torque specs for the flywheel and pressure plate