About to take on thsi conversion..... i have everything that to do it except the wiring fo rthe trany.... how long will i take working at an average pace.....

 

the toughest part of the install will be the pedal assembly. youre going to have to drill a hole for the master cylinder as well and make sure everything is lined up perfectly. the rest of the install isnt supposed to be that bad...

 

About three days I would imagine. I think I got it done in about 2.5 days.

The most time consuming is pulling out everything and cutting the holes for the pedal and trans. From there it goes pretty easy.

 

I think the pedals were not nearly as hard as everyone says.
They can be made much easier by doing two things.
If you go by the installation page from Alex do these two things.

1. very slightly enlarge the two holes for the bracket that the U shaped bolt goes thru.
2. Use a slightly larger hole saw thatn waht is mentioned in the guide.

I have this and some other stuff written down if you need it.

Make sure you get all the parts, check the shims in your pedals too. The guy I got my pedals from didn't mention that there were any missing.

The only problem I had and still have is that I bought a 93 trans and it doesn't have CAGS so I still have a SES light. LT1 edit doesn't let you delete this code.

I would say it's two full days of work but that can get much longer with trips to the parts shops. I had to make several trips because I didn't get some of the bolts from the guy I purchased it from.
I also didn't think the wiring was crystal clear either. If you haven't done any or much wiring it's missing a couple details.

Hope this helps

 

how much did all the parts for the conversion cost you and where did u get them?

 

The swap wasn't too difficult considering you are atleast a little mechanically inclined. Everything stated above is good advice.

One thing I'd like to recommend is getting (if you haven't already) an aftermarket shifter instead of the stock one. I was so busy worried about actually cutting into the frame of my car as well as finding bolts bolts and more bolts that I never realized how much of a waste the stock shifter was.

Don't worry about how long it is going to take you or else you will feel overloaded and rush yourself. When you flip the switch to the ON position on the Nikita Saw, you'll know what I'm talking about. After all, YOUR SAWING THE FRAME INSIDE YOUR CAR. Also make sure no debris from the saw is flying or bouncing inside your car or most likely it will travel upwards and stick to the inside of your windshield (tint). Ask me how I know. Took me a relaxed week considering I installed a COMPLETELY new drivetrain from front to back.

Like stated above, follow Alex's Web Site and you should be fine. If your looking for a few pointers on how to remove/install a T56... HERE is an old thread you can use as reference.

It'll be the best MOD you ever do.

HTH,

Ruben F.

P.S. VERY IMPORTANT!! While you have the COMPLETE interior removed don't forget to collect ALL the coins you have underneath the carpet! I must have shaved off 15lbs just from change alone! Keep in mind, copper won't fall as much as silver, due to it's weight, so needless to say you'll be glad you did.

 

It took me around 11-12 hours doing it by myself.... 3 hours on a friday night to get the auto out and about 8 or so hours the following saturday to install the clutch, tranny, hydraulics, etc. My brother helped me for about 15 minutes when trying to get the M6 under there and lined up with the bellhousing... as soon as i got a few bolts started he went back inside the house. The swap isn't hard.... granted i put the M6 pedal assembly in a month or so before the actual swap ( took about 2 hours), it didn't take nearly as long as i expected. I already had all the connectors, reprogrammed PCM, recipricating saw, drill, grinder, etc etc so it was pretty much straight forward. The hardest parts are getting the auto out and swapping the pedal assemblies. I never took out the seats or steering column either... isn't necessary and wouldn't make it easier enough, IMO, to warrant taking them out.... just lay the seats back and scoot them as far back as they'll go. You can just twist the pedal assemblies around the steering shaft and they'll go in/come out. For the M6 pedals you'll have to unbolt the BCM that's just toward the DS door of the shaft and move it a little.... so the pedals can rotate around the shaft and fall right into place.

Remember to have a torque wrench handy when tighening the PP down as well as the crank bolts. Also you'll need plenty of extensions and i found that having a few swivel joints helped when tightening the top bellhousing bolts. Before starting i made a list on a piece of paper of all the torque specs and what/how wires had to be spliced (but have since lost it). AND DON'T FORGET TO CONNECT THE GROUND CONNECTION ON THE PASS SIDE OF THE TRANNY ON THE BELLHOUSING. It was just by chance that as i was rolling under the car after tightening everything down that i saw it hanging freely... luckily i had not jacked everything back up and tightened the crossmember down yet so it was easy to just reconnect it. It hooks on the second-to-highest bolt on the block, just above the starter, IIRC.

And no lift here... everything was done with creepers, floor jacks, jack stands, and concrete blocks. It'll also help to have a shoebox around to put all the bolts and little stuff in (and a good memory too).

HTHs... if you have any more specific questions, just ask.

 

the only thing i font have is the wiring harness..... where can i get it...will it work without it