My 95 did have the wiring already in place in my automatic harness and I just had to connect it up. I guess it will depend then on who has what car for conversion.

 

How do you know what wire to connect it to? I guess your talking about the reverse lockout switch.

 

Once you move the reverse lockout to pin 6 on the blue connector, you connect that green wire to the lockout switch. Ground the other wire. This prevents the car from being put into reverse at speeds above 3mph since the PCM will energize it when you exceed that speed.

Alright, picture time.

This is a pic of the black connector you need to steal the green wire from on a 94. This wire is the 1-2 Shift control wire.




Move the green wire you stole from the above connector to this location on the blue connector.



Hope that helps.

 

For red95ta. Go here to see the pin outs for a 95. This is from Shoebox's web site. A lot of good info there. http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm_conn_d.jpg

The correct wire is already in your 95 auto harness. It is the brown one going by the wiring diagram. Connect it to one side of the reverse solenoid and then a 12 volt source to the other side. I used the hot wire from the reverse lights since it is already there if you hooked up your reverse lights.

By the way make sure your pcm is flashed with a M6 program or you may get some strange activation of the solenoid. As you can see that pin is used on an auto and a M6 but for different things.

 

Thank you guys. I'll get messing with it as soon as it's not a million degrees here.

 

Did anyone else bother to weld in a piece of metal where the shift cable used to be? I made a template up to fit the 6 speed shift boot and based on where I thought it should be located, I had an inch or so of that hole not in use... My buddy welded a piece in for me so it seals up nice now.

I was also spoiled and did the swap on a hoist with better than average tools at my buddies place.... cudos to those of you who did it on the floor

 

You best bow. I did mine laying on my back with basic tools (no tranny jack). The master cylinder hole was done with a drill bit and much reaming and the shifter hole was done very crudely with a 4 1/2" angle grinder (with a lot of bending help from a pickle fork). The hardest part by far was the pedals, which I did w/out removing the steering column.

Maybe one day I'll have the right tools to do this stuff.

 

I pulled the column out to do my pedals, it made it a lot easier to get them in and get that hole cut. The wholesaw worked beautifuly. I also made cardboard templates for everything before I actually cut into my car to be sure it would work.

We drilled out the welds in the existing automatic brace, and then bent it up. My buddy used a pair of tin snips to cut if off nice. He took a hammer and hit it back into place so nothing looks out of the ordinary. The hole in the tunnel wasn't that bad either. I used a knock out punch, but a drill bit would work for all the corners. I then used a sawzall to cut that hole. It was tough to keep the saw smooth being such thin material. I ended up finishing the job with a set of tin snips. That did the nicest job, was easy to control. I then file fitted the rest of the hole to make sure my boot fit nicely.

 

Just a quick note on this....

I found a small bug in the wiring! When I connect the orange/black to the black/white for the hatch it enables the hatch but it also diables the EGR valve. This is b/c when the wires are connected, it sends a ground signal to the computer (black/white is a ground wire). The computer interprets the car being in park or neutral and under no load; therefore the EGR valve isn't needed.

I found this out after failing my e-test. I did a data log, and found my EGR DC (duty cycle) at 0 for the entire run, which means the computer isn't sending the solenoid the command to open. I have to verify my valve works tonight, and then get her e-tested again!

For those of you who have to e-test, hopefully this may help you out and avoid wasting money trying to replacing something that doesn't need replacing.

 

That's good information to know. I don't have to worry about it, but I'm sure it will happen to others.

 

I had my car e-tested today.... She passed!!!! More or less fling colours except the HC, so I'd assume my cat is starting give up.

Word to the wise... hook up your hatch another way if you need to e-test it! I have the GM book, but have to find my DRL module to tie it into that and then try it.

 

Why didn't you just unsplice the two wires and test it, then resplice them?

 

I did unsplice them for the test. I am going to wire it up properly so I don't have to worry about it again. This way I can't forget about it for my e-test in 2 years time...... I am kinda funny that way and trying to make things factory like. I guess I enjoy the challenge of making it right and then knowing I figured out and made it work

 

Good info there. Doesn't apply to me since I removed my EGR system.....thank god we don't have testing here.

 

so did you figure out the wires to hook in?