Stock 10 bolt w/ MT Street ET's (Not radials), anyone done it?
Stock 10 bolt w/ MT Street ET's (Not radials), anyone done it?
Curious, I just got done doing hawk pads and cross drilled rotors all around on my TA. Also threw on my Weld Draglite XP's (15x10" in the rear and 15x4" in the front). The fronts are a standard MT 26" tire, and the rears are Mickey Thompson Street ET's (not the radial ones), they are 26"x11.5"x15". Who here has succesfuly ran these with a stock 10 bolt? Just curious if I should even attempt a launch or track day with this car. I dont have my 383 yet, only running mods in the sig....post away....O will obviously buy a Strange 12 bolt when this one blows...
Re: Stock 10 bolt w/ MT Street ET's (Not radials), anyone done it?
I ran for a couple years making about 500FWHP and had a 3600 stall. I used the MT ET streets and launched as hard as I could. Stock 100K mile 10 bolt with 3.73s held up fine.
I switched to the 98+ style diff. when I added more boost to my engine. I have only ran it a few times since then, and it's O.K. so far. I'm going to a bigger full-on slick to get some more traction now and I'm waiting for something to break.
You don't know if it's too weak until you break it, so just drive it like you stole it.
EDIT: I just noticed you have a clutch.. That can be much harder on the rear then the auto. With the auto you have everything bound up on the line with all the slack out of the rear waiting to launch. With the manual you can have slack and snap against the rear hard when you drop the clutch. Slip the clutch a bit as you launch and you will keep traction better and not shock your rear so bad..
I switched to the 98+ style diff. when I added more boost to my engine. I have only ran it a few times since then, and it's O.K. so far. I'm going to a bigger full-on slick to get some more traction now and I'm waiting for something to break.
You don't know if it's too weak until you break it, so just drive it like you stole it.

EDIT: I just noticed you have a clutch.. That can be much harder on the rear then the auto. With the auto you have everything bound up on the line with all the slack out of the rear waiting to launch. With the manual you can have slack and snap against the rear hard when you drop the clutch. Slip the clutch a bit as you launch and you will keep traction better and not shock your rear so bad..
Last edited by DiabloZ; Apr 16, 2005 at 08:59 PM.
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