I tried to install a new torque converter 2 weeks ago. I had to stop and put it all back together without swapping converters. I got to the last 3 bolts holding the tranny to the engine and I couldn't break the bolts loose. I reinstalled everything as it was without loosing any fluid and everything seemed fine until yesterday.
Yesterday I started to notice that the shifts seemed to "slip" into gear rather than "jump" into gear. The revs would slide up while the gears slipped up from 2nd to 3rd. It usually just "bangs" right into gear, espessially after the Trans-Go.
When I first had the Trans-Go intalled there was a similar problem, but not the same. Then, the car would slip into gear as now, but only at high RPM. The cure was to jam in the gas pedal 10 times with the car off. This worked and I don't know why. It did not work for me yesterday.
Sorry this is so long, I am trying to explain the best I can.

 

you may want to try the drivetrain forum
although i see your reasons for trying this board first..it moves hella fast!

 

I'll try posting over there. Thanks.

 

not having much luck next door in the drivetrain area. Any help would be much appreciated. It seems to be getting more frequent. I am not driving much, but I have to get places every now and then.

 

I would like to invite you to check out the 93 specific forum, www.speeddensity.org. There are a couple of guys on there that may be able to answer your question, namely Fastbird93, or Knightfire.
THNX Dave

 

OK...Let's start here. Have you checked the fluid? Is it full? Does it smell burnt, or is it brown or black...Or does it still look candy red?

Did you mess with the TV cable at all while attempting to pull the trans?

If the trans is full of fluid, and the TV cable is set properly, you're more than likely another victim of the Trans-Go shift kit. I've been preaching to people for years to stop installing them because they tear transmissions up. Hopefully someday everybody will get the messege.

Frank
All-Trans Transmissions

 

Thanks for the 93 Speed Density site. It's been along time since I've been there, guess I kind of forgot about it.

Frank, Suppose the Fluid is fine along with the TV cable (I'll check tomorrow morning) what would cause the problems I'm having. How does the Trans-go affect this and did I screw something up or is this just coincidence?
Thanks.

 

why do you dislike transgo?
i've heard nothing but good stuff from the guys who have had them installed (save for the occasional screw up where they or the mechanic installed 1 or 2 parts wrong)
not trying to be rude, just want to know why
i think it's better than b&m for that matter because i heard all they do is increase line pressure without doing stuff to the valve body

 

The answer is pretty easy. I've been building performance automatic transmissions for over 14 years. Since Trans-Go's popularity has came to the forefront, I've taken apart many transmissions with TG kits. The fact is every one of them has a wasted 2-4 band and 3-4 clutches. The fact is they destroy transmissions.

As a professional, I'm able to get better shift quality, and longer life out of a 700/4L60E with parts I source from a few other places. It's also less money than you guys are spending on a kit...About $35-$50 total.

Frank
All-Trans Transmissions

 

Frank, I checked the fluid and it is fine. I'm going to adjust the TV cable later, but I think it's fine, I never touched it.
From your last post I think I found my problem. The 1-2 shift is fine. The 2-3 slips bad and the 3-4 insn't what it used to be. If it is the bands and clutch what am I looking at to fix it?

Let me also throw in that when I had the kit put in I had install trouble. The kit I was sold was for an 4L60E. I took my car to a shop to install it. After driliing holes in the Valve body they realized they had the wrong kit, but not after ruining the clutch material, it was drained of fluid and burnt up. So I got the right kit and a new valve body along with new clutch material. When done the car drove fine. Could this problem I have now be related? It was done at the end of July, I have put less than 2,00 miles on the car since this happened.

 

Yes, it's very possible that your current problem can be related to the initial install. If the repair was half-assed it could have lingering results.
It sounds like the 3-4 clutches are wasted...A very common problem with a TG kit, even when installed correctly, though.

What are your intentions for the car? I get $1000 for an all out 10 second 700/4L60E. If you don't need a trans. built to that level, it can be done for $800 + hard parts (if any).

Frank

 

$800-is that to fix the 3-4 clutches or for a solid rebuild of the entire transmission. I am looking at a mid-low 12 sec car in the future. Nothing more than that for the time.
I on a tight budget until summer so I can't really afford to drop too much into the car right now.
What do you recommend for replacement parts to do the job right?

 

Either way you're looking at a rebuild. Any shop youtake it to is going to charge you atleast $1500 + the labor to take it out and put it back in.
Most shops won't fix a specific problem without a complete rebuild.

So, how can I build a racing trans for $1000 and most places want $1500 for a stock rebuild? It's easy, transmissions are probably the most profitable part of the auto repair industry (unless you're going to do oil changes and brake jobs all day).
It takes around 4 hours to take a transmission apart, clean it, and reassemble it (the correct way). In a stock rebuild, you only replace the parts that are bad, and inspect everything else. So, you might have $100-$150 in parts for a rebuild, unless you run into hard parts failure..but...that's not even a real big issue anymore because we have complete cores laying around that we buy for $100-$150 a piece.
So, a typical shop owner pays his builder around $20 an hour, plus $150 for parts to build it. That's a pretty good profit margin.

I work at a shop for 40 hours a week. I'm not trying to get rich building stuff on the side. Mostly it offsets the cost of my own racing habits. I can assure you that there's alot more money (for part) and time invested in racing transmissions. $400-$500 for performance parts alone is a fair estimate. I only use the best stuff...The clutches and steels alone for the 3-4 clutch pack will run ME about $75, because I won't build a racing trans. without Raybestos "Blue" frictions, and Kolene coated steels in the 3-4's.

If you plan on running anywhere near the 12's, you should really invest in a quality rebuild.

Frank

 

Thanks Frank. I don't mind investing in a quality rebuild, unfortunately I'm in my last semester of grad school and I'm dead broke right now. I am hoping, since I am not driving much right now, to stretch this out as long as I can. I don't want to half *** the rebuild as iyt was last time, I'd rather spend the money once and get it done right the first time even if it cost more.
Will driving 10-15 miles a week really hurt more. Is the failing clutches something that can cause worse damage to the rest?

 

Most definately! The more you drive it, the more damage you'll do. The 2-4 bands wraps around the reverse housing. If the band burns up to a certain point, it'll warp the reverse housing. That housing alone is another $100+investment on top of the rebuild. If friction clutches go metal to metal, you'll shed it all through the transmission. These things haver aluminum pumps which won't handle any debris before you'll need a new one...$400+ from GM just for a pump.

Frank