Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

Rebuilding the 4L60

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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 01:00 AM
  #1  
MIKZ86TA's Avatar
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From: Florida
Rebuilding the 4L60

[[B]Hello! First off youll probably notice I am a newbie. I didnt see a NewMember section for introductions. I am a member of a few forums concerning F-Bodies and S-series. I am a Moderator on S10PLANET and enjoy helping others out. But time comes where i need the favor returned, and thats now. I noticed this board has alot of Tranny builders and I hope I can get some thoughts and direction on my rebuild. Its my 1st attempt at rebuilding a Tranny. I am no stranger to the vehicle from mechanics to electronics. I do it all myself. But this is my 1st go with the Tranny.
To fill you in, I have a 86 TransAm 355 and it has a 91 4L60.
I have in NEW parts a Gasket/Seals kit, Superior 700-HP kit, added the .471 BValve, 2100 Stall converter, new InputDrum (last band friction parted ways and scored it), Beast SunShell, new Timken Torrington bearings, new bushings, new B-W Fwd, Rev, O-Run, Lo-Rev clutches, a few new steels, B-W HiEnergy 3-4 pack and a Raybestos ProSeries band.
Thus far I have tore it down, cleaned and inspected the case and all parts. I rebuilt the Pump, dissasembled, checked and rebuilt the V.Body, have all new lip seals and associated parts already in.
I started today on the input drum. Followed the ATSG and prior input from some good people. But I came to a part on the 3-4 pack that I really could use some advice on.
My pack is s mentioned a B-W HE kit. Came with 9 Frictions (.062"), 8 Steels (.060") and 1 Apply (.0125").
I orig had a 6/6 pack in the trans.
My orig Snap Ring is a (.093")
My orig Top Selective is a #7 (.190")
My figuring according to every thing Ive seen thus far is, have the 5-legged Apply ring, mixed input that you can put a Friction next OR put the .125" plate next. Then put a Friction. After that the .060" Steels and .062" Frictions will alternate. This leaves a Friction on top. If I put my #7 back on and the SnapRing, I relatively have no clearance. I tried to put one of the old steels (.104" I believe it was) there instead of the #7 Selective and got seemingly too much clearence.
My question is, can anyone post the correct order of the parts, let me know if I should get another apply plate, what the clearance shold be, and how to acheive the proper clearance in the best way.
I can get you more info if needed. Just ask.
I appreciate it in advance
Old Oct 5, 2007 | 06:20 AM
  #2  
12SCNDZ's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,634
From: Newark, Delaware
My personal suggestion is to throw all that 3-4 stuff away, and order a 4L60E 3-4 apply ring, and a Raybestos Z-Pak.
Why a .471" boost valve?? They make a .500" valve.

Make sure your band ISN'T KEVLAR!

Frank
CPT
Old Oct 5, 2007 | 11:59 AM
  #3  
MIKZ86TA's Avatar
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From: Florida
Oops. I meant I had added the .500 BV for the TV and also upgraded the Lo-Rev BV too. I couldve gotten the Z-Pak, but heard mixed reviews on single-sided packs, they are new and not yet proven it seemed and the B-W HEs were a unanimous street choice over other Hi-Po parts. I am doing the rebuild myself because I cant afford to have it done. Plus I want to learn a new skill to add to my repritoir. I already bought this set and cant aford to throw them away and purchase an entire new set. If someone would help me with what I got, that would be soooo appreciated. THX, Michel
Old Oct 5, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #4  
MIKZ86TA's Avatar
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From: Florida
Just to add some info about my posted topic. With the 9/8pack 3-4 Clutches in place as described, I get NO clearance between the top and snapring with the Orig #7 Selective Plate in place. When I use one of the Orig steels from the 6 pack as a top plate, I get just over .065" (probably .069" best I can judge) between it and the snap ring. I tried to remove a friction and steel to reduce the stack, but it is too much. What top plates are availible and what result (clearance) am I seeking to make the 3-4 pack apply correctly? THX, Michel
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