Great and informative replies thank you everyone, for your insight and input. Puts my mind at ease for sure.

 

Is this true in fact with the complete assemblies?? Id hate to bring this home only to find out i needed to bring it to a shop anyways..

 

The Strange is fully assembled, lubed, run in at the factory. Total plug-and-play. The Strange also uses the stock style through-bolts for the torque arm. The Moser uses individual bolts top and bottom. They have a tendancy to come loose, and some torque arm manufacturers will not warranty their products with the Moser. Some people with the Moser have had problems with the driveshaft length not matching stock, but if you're buying a new rear axle assembly, you would probably buy a new DS as well.

 

The Moser 12 uses the gm 7 1/2" caliper plates. They have to be assembled onto the axle's and bearings pressed on. So, when you receive the shipment, axles are seperate from the housing. About $20 an axle for a shop press. I had a press so zero dollars. The rear bolted in as an assembled piece, then you insert the axles. Brake hook-up the way you want. Many use tie-wraps, but I fabbed some brackets.

I reused the gm stock rear disc brakes. No lube, so I had to do that. I purchased a new DS from Denny DS Service. HD Alum about $500 with 1350 yoke. Very nice shaft.

The oil vent must be located high. I used a plastic hose. Also, when lube filling, use the side port to gage case fill. Moser rears can emit lube when over filled.

Torque arm bolts can come loose. I used red lock-tite. No problems with bolts falling out. It is wise to check the after-market torque-arm bracket hole size so it will match the Moser bolt size. I have a Random-Tech Arm, so, I made some bushings to take out clearance since it was designed for the stock thru bolts. Lots of load @ those bolts.

Better than the 7 1/2" rear.
B.

 

If you have a T56 manual trans, don't bother with a 12bolt- go with the 9" or S60. If you have an A4 then the 12 bolt will suite your need just fine. I like my S60 with trutrac and put about 6k street miles on it so far. The only complaints are- 1. had slight whine between 45-50 (installed louder exhaust to fix that) and 2. Had a pinhole leak from a weld on the outer axle housing (JB welded and touchup paint to fix). Still haven't been to the drag strip on it yet.

One last peice of advice: Take your time and choose wisely, think about overall goals of the car and customize based on that. Hindsight, I would have had mine narrowed 2" or 3" per side so i could get some cheap 15x10 rear wheels that I'm itching for now.

 

Sorry I didnt put that In my signature it is in fact an A4, and Im 95% on that Strange 12 bolt, it was my first choice and I have heard some good things. Now to figure out a driveshaft

 

This moser went out the window for me just for the fact that if I am going to pay what these rear ends run, then I expect this thing to install itself for the most part (in a sense) not literally of course. haha

If you could though tell me more about the driveshaft you purchased pros and cons what I should look for?

 

I didnt think or more so, I didnt know I should replace the driveshaft what should I be looking for here? I figured prob something lighter? I want to go cost effective here too but I can step out of the comfort zone a little

 

There are many driveshaft companies out there that can built you a nice strong piece. I personally had my local shop build me one. He has put them in 8 second drag cars and was confident I wouldn't break it. In fact, he told me if I did to bring it back and he would build me a new one for free. The welds on it were perfect- I have seen robots that couldn't weld as nicely.

If you want lighter, go with Alum or Carbon Fiber. If you want the strongest go with steel.

 

There's a "sticky" regarding driveshafts.

 

touche injuneer touche

 

I'm not trying to "touche'" anyone... just providing info.

The March 2011 issue of GM High-Tech Performance magazine has an article on installing the S60 in a 4th Gen. See page 58.