This is concerning our 93 that was swapped when we got it. The car needed a clutch pretty much when we bought it due to the previous owner having used a twice resurfaced flywheel. Just not enough there to bite. Killed a McLeod single disc in about 15K miles or so....and I do mean KILLED. Anyway,

I put a Spec Stage 2 in it a couple of months ago, and it's been flawless. But, and it may just be a psycho-sematic thing, to me it just feels off at this point. It feels like the clutch is engaging way too close to the floor and the pedal just feels a little mushy (granted, I'm running on a broken return spring, but the close to floor engagement has me concerned). I don't remember it engaging so far down when it was first installed either. The clutch seems to be grabbing just fine (350 RWHP 360 RWTQ and 4.10's out back, and I drive it hard) and I was extremely cautious during the break in. No chatter or anything out of it. I'm just really wary about something not being right and killing another clutch in a heartbeat. Oh yeah, swapped in a new Spec flywheel also with the clutch. Another thing it's doing is in first or second gear when you're putting it into gear you sometimes get a "clunk" out of it. At a stoplight on a flat surface dead stop I can put it in first and sometimes the car will pull forward an inch and then stop. ALmost like the clutch isn't disengaging. So I ask.....

Is it possible for the clutch pedal/master cylinder to have been installed wrong or misaligned when the previous owner installed everything??? Is there any way I can check this?? Would an adjustable master cylinder help if I were to raise the pedal a bit (to get more travel out of it)???

Thanks everyone.

 

It sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Once you get that problem squared away I would go ahead and rebleed the hydraulics again. My car is a m6 swap too and my clutch engages close tot he floor too but it doesnt move an inch when I put it in gear.

 

I agree that your clutch is not fully disengaging. When I converted my car the clutch pedal was about an inch lower than the brake pedal. The clutch engaged very close to the floor. I think the hole I cut for the master cylinder was not in exactly the right place and that resulted in the clutch pedal being low. I didn't have any problem with the clutch disengaging but I don't think I was getting full travel from the master cylinder.

I think when you put a new flywheel and clutch in you now need more travel to disengage the clutch. An adjustable master would probably solve the problem. I was going to make my master adjustable but I never got around to it before I went back to an auto.

 

I had the same issue when I converted my '96, however I've also seen this happen on other LT1 M6s that weren't converts. Usually a slightly bent clutch fork, or bad pilot bearing.

I also had the problem with my '99 TA, but it was the ****ty LS1 clutch.

I think GM didn't design enough travel for these cars, and if any specs are off they just don't release all the way.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Tomorrow if it's not raining I'm going to put the rear on jackstands and run the car in first with the clutch pedal in and see if the tires are rotating at all. That should immediately confirm whether or not the clutch is fully disengaging.

 

Well, didn't work on the car today (nursed a smoking hangover). But driving home this morning I did notice that the clutch pedal DEFINITELY sits lower than the brake pedal. Adjustable master cylinder time it looks like.