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pinion nut torque

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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 11:34 AM
  #1  
KHelfrich's Avatar
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pinion nut torque

i got my rear end back togther and know the bearing preload should be 15 inch-pound but how tight should i make the pinion nut

thanks
ken
Old Jun 20, 2006 | 11:53 AM
  #2  
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From: Kantuckee Yo'
Re: pinion nut torque

Originally Posted by KHelfrich
i got my rear end back togther and know the bearing preload should be 15 inch-pound but how tight should i make the pinion nut

thanks
ken
The nut will be super tight. The preload when you rotate the yoke should be 15 inch pounds with the wheels off.

It is very difficult to get the preload set due to the already crushed crush sleeve, you are supposed to replace the sleeve but this is a huge PITA. That why I went with a solid spacer so I can always precisely regain pinion preload without disassembly.

Last edited by wrd1972; Jun 20, 2006 at 11:55 AM.
Old Jun 21, 2006 | 07:21 AM
  #3  
KHelfrich's Avatar
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Re: pinion nut torque

where did you get the solid spacer and shims at

thanks
ken
Old Jun 21, 2006 | 07:51 AM
  #4  
wrd1972's Avatar
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From: Kantuckee Yo'
Re: pinion nut torque

Originally Posted by KHelfrich
where did you get the solid spacer and shims at

thanks
ken
Mine came from Randys ring and pinion, however nearly all f-body performace shops online have them.

You want the 10-bolt Ratech solid spacer and shim kit, its around $30.00 or so.

Be advised, The install of this solid spacer is super tricky to do. You have to add the correct shimming and achieve correct bearing preload. The tolerance is about +-.004. It is very easy to do this wrong. You will need to install and remove the pinion several times (major PITA) in order to find the right shim pack. This process alone would take about 45 minutes alone to do the right way.

If the spacer is set up wrong then bye bye pinion bearings and maybe gears.

The good news is the solid spacer is far better than the dinky crush sleeve because the preload cant change or slip, it stays constant plus you can easily replace a leaky seal and reinstall the nut and get the correct preload simply by torqueing the crap out of the nut. No guess work like the crush sleeve.
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