My friend and I are rebuilding my 4l60e and I want it to be bulletproof, Does anyone have a parts list to make this thing perform and last? I had it rebuilt 3 months ago and third and fourth gear are already gone! If I had an extra $1,000 I would just ship it off to frank @ CPT but I don't so I have to build it myself. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

i think this is most of franks parts list:

4L60E

BASE REBUILD:.......................................... .................................................. ...........$700 + hard parts
* Toledo paper and rubber kit
* "National" pump and tail seals
*Standard Raybestos tan frictions and 2-4 band...Set to proper clearances
*New "Beast" sun shell
*.470" Sonnax boost valve
*Sealed Power hardened pump rings
*553 (V-8) 2-4 servo
*New Borg Warner 29 element input sprag
*700 style Babbit pump bushing
*Bronze case bushing
*New pressure switch manifold
*All hard parts cleaned and thoroughly inspected
*Case "cooked"
*Stock shift quality
*Overall unit endplay brought to specs
*Sealed Power filter
*"Farpak" fiber pan gasket
PERFORMANCE REBUILD:.......................................... ............................................$800 + hard parts
*Toledo paper and rubber kit
*"National" pump and tail seals
*6 Raybestos "High Energy" 3-4 frictions
*Raybestos "High Energy" 2-4 band
* Borg Warner Over-Run, Reverse, Low/Reverse, and Forward frictions
*New "Beast" sun shell
*.490" Sonnax boost valve
*Sealed Power hardened pump rings
*Sonnax "high RPM" pump slide spring
*"Corvette" 2-4 servo
*New Borg Warner 29 element input sprag
*700 style Babbit pump bushing
*Bronze case bushing
*New pressure switch manifold
*All hard parts cleaned and inspected
*Case "cooked"
*Custom shift quality
*Modified EPC solenoid
*Overall unit endplay brough to specs
*Sealed Power filter
*"Farpak" fiber pan gasket
RACE REBUILD:.......................................... .................................................. .........$1000 + hard parts
*Toledo paper and rubber kit
*"National" pump and tail seals
*Raybestos "Z-Pak" 3-4 clutch pack
*Alto "wide" red lined 2-4 band
*Borg Warner Over-Run, Reverse, Low/Reverse, and Forward frictions
*Alto Kolene coated over-run steels
*New "Beast" sun shell
*.490" Sonnax boost valve
*Sealed Power hardened pump rings
*Sonnax "high RPM" pump slide spring
*Fairbanks billet 2nd servo
*Sonnax billet "dual piston" 4th servo
*New Borg Warner 29 element input sprag
*New Borg Warner late 4L60E low/reverse sprag
*700 style Babbit pump bushing
*Bronze case bushing
*Sonnax "Wide" rear sun gear bushing
*New pressure switch manifold
*All hard parts cleaned and inspected
*Case "cooked"
*Firm shift quality
*Modified EPC solenoid
*Overall unit endplay brought within specs
*Sealed Power filter
*"Farpak" pan gasket
PRO RACE REBUILD:.......................................... .................................................. ..$1400 + hard parts
*Same as race rebuild...Except...
*4L65E hardened output shaft
*4L65E needle bearing, hardened front internal gear
*Steel input piston set with associated spring packs

LM102910 (Race) and LM102949

 

That is a great parts list! Are there any other tips or tricks like machining or drilling involved?

 

Check this thread
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=420697
Theres some tips in there on how to make'em last.

Your best bet is to just do a stock rebuild and drive it easy until you can afford to have a performance rebuild, if you plan on doing it yourself. Stock rebuilds aren't that tough to do, though if you want one to last under harsh conditions, you need the someone experienced like Frank at CPT to build it so you dont make any mistakes or forget anything.

 

Why do a stock rebuild when I can get all the parts that frank uses?

 

Building a 4L60E requires much more than just a bunch of good parts. There are many many little tricks, and modifications we do to make these things hold up. That's the main reason that I don't have any reservations about posting the list of all the parts we use. Fot the average person to buy all the parts that are in our Race units, they'll spend upwards of $700. Then you have to account for the $300+ worth of specialty tools you'll need. Remember, if you misassemble something, you'll end up damaging alot of those expensive parts. How many $75 3-4 clutch packs do you want to buy, before you get it right? How much free time do you have to keep pulling it back out to fix it.

Don't get me wrong. I have nothing against someone attempting this on their own, but a 4L60E IS NOT a beginners transmission. It's not forgiving for mistakes. Many set out to try to save a few dollars, and end up spending twice as much because of that. We see this constantly. FWIW, I payed someone to paint my car. I payed someone to port my heads. I'm paying someone to do my roll cage. That's because they're all professionals, and I realize how much of a mess I could've made by trying any of those myself.

Frank
CPT

 

Like frank said......you can't beat a man at his own game

 

Frank you are right I just need to buck up and send the trans to you. I'll be calling you soon

 

Definatly save up your $$$ and send it to Frank.

 

Anyone know what holes to drill and what size on the separator plate?

 

You will not be disappointed in trans from Frank.

 

Im sure I wont be dissapointed with Frank but forright now I'm having the local builder rebuild it and need to some info to pass on to him.

 

I must be really close to "Franks secret recipe" Because He wont pm me back all week?

 

I've rresponded to every PM, except the one I just got. Yes, driving a checkball into the 4th accumulator passage is a way to block it...however...it can't be reversed once it's done that way. You'll never get the checkball back out of the case.
As for your builder "drilling 8 holes in the plate"...We don't drill that many. Remember, a larhge percentage of builders drill the holes too big in the plate. Many shift kits even instruct you to drill them too large. The largest hole we drill is .108".

Frank
CPT

 

franks the man...my tranny is holding up with a little over 600 rwhp...near 750 at the crank....