Okay, so I let the wife drive the car today (mistake as usual) and she tells me "it didn't want to go in reverse". When the car and her get home, I go to check it out, and sure enough the shifter operates normal through the gears, and springs back to neutral like it should, but when trying to put it in reverse, there is much more effort needed to push it over and up to reverse. Reverse still works fine, and no noises are made while driving in reverse (or any other gear), its just that putting the shifter to the right past its 5-6 shift to reverse requires a lot more push to get it over.

Any ideas on what this is? I plan on taking the shifter apart in the morning and see if I can see anything wrong. BTW, the shifter is an aftermarket Hurst shifter, but I think the problem isn't in the shifter.

 

Im almost 100% positive you blew a fuse. I havent had this happen in a while but I think its a fuse called eng or something like that. Try it and see what happends.

 

Really?! A fuse? I'll check it out in the morning and let everyone know.

Any other ideas welcome.

 

Sounds like the reverse lockout solenoid is not working. Could be caused by a blown fuse, loose connector, or burned out solenoid. Scan the PCM, looking for DTC 83.

In your 94 fuse #6 in the underhood box feeds the EVAP solenoid, EGR solenoid, fan relays and the reverse lockout solenoid. If the fuse is blown it would also set several other DTC codes.

 

If it's NOT a fuse, then it's a problem with the Reverse Lock-out Solenoid, driver's side, near the tail of the tranny:

 

Thanks for all the help. I'm about ready to go check some fuses. Anyone know how much a reverse lock out solenoid is?

 

I was talking with him yesterday evening about this and he did mention DTC's being set. I'd say that's where it is.

 

Sure enough, I just checked fuse #6 and it was blown. I replaced it with a new fuse, and its working flawlessly now with no code being thrown


Thanks everyone. I love it when its a cheep easy fix like this. This is another classic examply why I love this board and the people on it helping each other out.

 

Your welcome

 

Alright, after driving it a bit more, I think the new fuse popped because it shot a code to the computer, and it is hard to get it back into reverse again. Also what other codes/things would it do if it blew this fuse? After driving it again, reverse seems to work, but it is running rough. Now I am back to being baffled again.

Any ideas? I plan on scanning it in the morning to try and get a more in depth look.

 

Sounds like you've got some type of wiring issue going on? Something's shorting out or something, causing that fuse to keep blowing. Or there's a problem with one of the other loads off that fuse?

Unfortunately, this one could take some digging .....

 

Time to start chasing grounds and wiring.

 

The fuse I replaced it with was a little on the cheep side I think. It didn't blow but the metal part inside the plastic part came out when I removed the fuse. I replaced it will a better one now and it seems to be fine as far as the reverse thing goes.

However I am having another issue with it now after it goes into closed loop, and it missing like a mad man. However this is not really a discussion for the drivetrain section anymore so I posted it where it belongs.

 

Possibly related to an EGR problem?? But that would probably be too easy?! But it would be nice to know if problem "A" was responsible for problem "B".