Mushy Clutch Pedal
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,874
From: Under The Hood
Mushy Clutch Pedal
I've tried to bleed the Clutch system a thousand times...but the darn pedal is still soft. When I got the new clutch pedal kit from GM after I blew up the first one. I bled the new kit outside of the car this time. I got the Kit pretty firm, and re-installed it...When I press down on the pedal there was more resistance...but the Clutch didn't engage till the pedal was almost to the floor. This sucks...there's still air in the line. Aparently I suck and am not doing it right. Are there any alternatives to bleeding the clutch out? ...so far this is what I have been doing....
Removed Clucth Cap and Diapragm from reservoir. Pushed the Clutch Slave Cylinder in while holding it verticly. I held the Slave cylinder rod in while I then replaced the the cap and diapragm. I then Pushed the Rod in using short strokes. I could hear the air in the lines.. and I watched the bubbles carry to the top of the resivoir. I then let off the Slave cylinder rod and removed the Cap and Diapragm. There weren't any large bubbles present. As I handled the Clutch kit...I could hear air moving around in the lines still...no matter how many times I bled the system this way I couldn't seem to eliminate the trapped air. Now is there any other way to remove the trapped air? I'm stuck at this point...am I doing something wrong? The Slave cylinder rod was signifigantly harder when I put it in the tranny. Had to use the mounting Bolt's to suppress it all the way into the clutch fork, but aparantly that isn't hard enough for the Stage 2 Clutch. What do I need to do to get this right?
Removed Clucth Cap and Diapragm from reservoir. Pushed the Clutch Slave Cylinder in while holding it verticly. I held the Slave cylinder rod in while I then replaced the the cap and diapragm. I then Pushed the Rod in using short strokes. I could hear the air in the lines.. and I watched the bubbles carry to the top of the resivoir. I then let off the Slave cylinder rod and removed the Cap and Diapragm. There weren't any large bubbles present. As I handled the Clutch kit...I could hear air moving around in the lines still...no matter how many times I bled the system this way I couldn't seem to eliminate the trapped air. Now is there any other way to remove the trapped air? I'm stuck at this point...am I doing something wrong? The Slave cylinder rod was signifigantly harder when I put it in the tranny. Had to use the mounting Bolt's to suppress it all the way into the clutch fork, but aparantly that isn't hard enough for the Stage 2 Clutch. What do I need to do to get this right?
Last edited by Heatmaker; Dec 19, 2003 at 04:56 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 608
If you have a self bleeder (you can get one from any auto parts for about $30) pull the cap and rubber diaphram out of the resevoir , Put the hose down the resevoir with one of the attachments with tapered nozzle on the end of the hose, shove it tight into the line at the bottom of the resevoir. . Make sure the resevoir has fluid in it and pump the bleeder, The bleeder has a resevoir also which sould have a little fluid in the bottom of it. Start pumping, It should only take a few pumps and when you pull the nozzle out of the resevoir the level will drop and you have to add fluid. I,ve done it this way a few times and the clutch pedal is very firm.
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