Installing a Spec Stage 3 Clutch Tomorrow
Installing a Spec Stage 3 Clutch Tomorrow
Hi,
Tomorrow I am going to be opening up my Camaro and replacing the clutch.
I know some of you guys are experts, and I'm a little apprehensive. As this is my first time, I did a **** ton of research.
Just wanted to know if there are any tricks you guys could offer that might help.
I plan on taking pics of everything.
If you have any helpful information please share it!
Thanks in advance.
Tomorrow I am going to be opening up my Camaro and replacing the clutch.
I know some of you guys are experts, and I'm a little apprehensive. As this is my first time, I did a **** ton of research.
Just wanted to know if there are any tricks you guys could offer that might help.
I plan on taking pics of everything.
If you have any helpful information please share it!
Thanks in advance.
Hey,
I'm not sure what happened over here at cz28 but it seems like the forum is half dead. My advice would be to check your parts before pulling it apart. Make sure your clutch fork geometry is correct (I'm in that boat right now) and torque everything.
I'm working on a Vega so I pulled the transmission out in about 25 minutes with a couple long extensions and a swivel. There are 8 bolts on the transmission to bellhousing (15mm) and six bolts from the bellhousing to the block (9/16"). The bolts on the pressure plate are 9/16", too.
I'd disconnect the hydraulics from your clutch pedal before disconnecting them from the transmission. If you don't you can overextend the clutch slave and damage it. Just use a hangar to tie it up out of the way.
If you aren't going to drain your transmission before taking it off the car (only do that if you're using a transmission jack) make sure you either stuff an old yoke in the output shaft or use one of those rubber plugs. Automatic transmission fluid stains concrete really bad.
Make sure you at the very least loosen your starter bolts. I removed my starter before removing the bellhousing. I think the bolts with 9/16".
Also, make sure you line up the new pressure plate with your flywheel in the correct orientation. I remember reading something about making your flywheel with white paint before you remove your old clutch. Unfortunately, that wasn't done in my car so I'm probably going to have to remove my transmission a few times to get the pressure plate clocked correctly.
Now's also a great time to change out that old rubber transmission mount for a poly one. $35 and fuh-get abaht it.
Good luck, bro.
I'm not sure what happened over here at cz28 but it seems like the forum is half dead. My advice would be to check your parts before pulling it apart. Make sure your clutch fork geometry is correct (I'm in that boat right now) and torque everything.
I'm working on a Vega so I pulled the transmission out in about 25 minutes with a couple long extensions and a swivel. There are 8 bolts on the transmission to bellhousing (15mm) and six bolts from the bellhousing to the block (9/16"). The bolts on the pressure plate are 9/16", too.
I'd disconnect the hydraulics from your clutch pedal before disconnecting them from the transmission. If you don't you can overextend the clutch slave and damage it. Just use a hangar to tie it up out of the way.
If you aren't going to drain your transmission before taking it off the car (only do that if you're using a transmission jack) make sure you either stuff an old yoke in the output shaft or use one of those rubber plugs. Automatic transmission fluid stains concrete really bad.
Make sure you at the very least loosen your starter bolts. I removed my starter before removing the bellhousing. I think the bolts with 9/16".
Also, make sure you line up the new pressure plate with your flywheel in the correct orientation. I remember reading something about making your flywheel with white paint before you remove your old clutch. Unfortunately, that wasn't done in my car so I'm probably going to have to remove my transmission a few times to get the pressure plate clocked correctly.
Now's also a great time to change out that old rubber transmission mount for a poly one. $35 and fuh-get abaht it.

Good luck, bro.
One trick for the first time swap -- you may need to make a small dent in the sheetmetal of the tranny tunnel on the drivers side to help get a socket on one of the top bolts. A pry bar and ball peen hammer will work fine. You may want to doa little more clearancing once the tranny is out, as this makes future clutch swaps a little easier.
Don't need to clear it, use the right tools. At least that's what I did. I tried to clear it at first to get my socket and ratchet in there. Then I found the right tool. Read my thread, I had some issues but swaped my clutch out as well.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...ght=sherwinz28
EDIT: Right tool is the craftsmen swivel socket, can't remember if it was the 3/8" or smaller. I had to use a 1/2 - 3/8 adapter to connect that swivel socket to my ratchet. Made the job much easier since I took off and put on the bellhousing many many times. If you need the part number, let me know and I will look at the socket when I get home and post.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...ght=sherwinz28
EDIT: Right tool is the craftsmen swivel socket, can't remember if it was the 3/8" or smaller. I had to use a 1/2 - 3/8 adapter to connect that swivel socket to my ratchet. Made the job much easier since I took off and put on the bellhousing many many times. If you need the part number, let me know and I will look at the socket when I get home and post.
Last edited by sherwinZ28; Sep 16, 2010 at 02:17 PM.
I know it's going to **** you off but I yanked the six speed out of my Vega in 40 minutes with nothing more than a floor jack and a ratchet with 4 short extensions. 
Putting it back in, though? That was a bitch.

Putting it back in, though? That was a bitch.
Yeah, well my car is pretty simple.
No power brakes. No power power windows. No power steering. No air conditioning. No radio. No power door locks. No power seats. Certainly, no power *** warmers.
It's about as simple as it gets, my friend. The trade-off? My car is LOUD (poorly insulated), hot, rides very stiff, and spills gas out the gas cap behind the back license plate. LOL. Insurance is nice, though. $14 a month.
No power brakes. No power power windows. No power steering. No air conditioning. No radio. No power door locks. No power seats. Certainly, no power *** warmers.It's about as simple as it gets, my friend. The trade-off? My car is LOUD (poorly insulated), hot, rides very stiff, and spills gas out the gas cap behind the back license plate. LOL. Insurance is nice, though. $14 a month.
question.... I scored the are behin my pilot bushing with a flat head.. Is that going to present a problem? It's just a few scrathes. Well a little deeper then a scratch..
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