Well I bought a 9" off of a friend of mine and honestly its WAAAAY more rear than I need, but whatever lol. (I have a 6-speed).

The rear included:
Moser housing, Strange Center section, 4.11's, Detroit locker, 35 spline axles, Daytona Billet aluminum pinion spacer, 1350 Yoke, metco control arms, LCA relocation brackets, an LS1 drive shaft, and ARP studs.

I hadn't ever driven a car with a locker in it, but now when I shift I feel a little jolt. I was reading past posts on the forum and that is the locker engaging from what I understand. Will this jolt resemble a transmission that is grinding? My tranny if fine, but as soon as I installed the rear my shifts started feeling rough. This is normal correct? Will the locker cause this jolt to happen even when the car is not in motion? I don't see how the locker can engage when I'm not moving. Once the car jolts I can remain still and shift through all the gears no problem. If I roll forward, stop, and then go to put the car back into gear sometimes there is a little jolt again. I've had a couple of people tell me that this is normal operation, but I just wanted to confirm that.

(Also, I paid $1600 for the rear, is that about right?)

 

Sounds lil bit if i read correctly that your clutch is not disengaging properly? and that is causing the jolt you speak of as your drivetrain take's up the slack.. you will notice a slight shimmy w/ a locker going in and out mostly on slick's will you feel the car kinda wiggle as it take's off.. you can feel it more on turn's if your on the gas in a corner then let off abruptly.. As far as sitting still make sure your clutch hyd. are working correctly... and everything's tight!

 

Btw.. Great deal on that rear! No such thing as too much when it comes' to driveline part's.. I'll never put anything but a 9" in my Car's...

 

Thats a good possibility... I know that my clutch is going as is. Its getting hard to drive because of it. I just thought that it was odd that as soon as I put the rear in it started doing it. One of the guys at work said that because I changed the DS and the gears my transmission is rotating at a different rate than it is use to and it can cause it to grind. Does that also sound about right possibly in conjuntion with the clutch going?

Anyone else with any input? Thanks guys.

 

Not sure abou tthe diff gear's having anything to do w/ it..other than more slop in them? whatever the case is.. just keep an eye on it and make sure your pinion bearing's, fluid's and all check out ok.. and everything's tight.. replace that weak clutch and enjoy life until you **** a output shaft..

 

I had to have a shorter driveshaft made to work with my Moser 9". Make sure you have about an inch of play (driveshaft sliding into transmission).

 

I was wondering if it could possible be too long of a driveshaft. How would I be able to tell if its too long? I don't quite understand what you mean by having an inch of play.

 

If you unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion yoke (rearend), the driveshaft should be able to slide forward into the tail of the tranny by about an inch.

 

As stated above it should be able to go into the tranny about an inch to compensate for suspension compression... Mark it with a marker on the shaft at the closest point where it goes into the tranny, then unbolt it from the rear and push it into the tranny until it bottoms out and mark it again, pull it out and measure the distance between the marks... If it's less then an inch you should think about getting a shorter shaft...