I'm curious how your 6sp. 10 bolts are holding up in stock form "342s", list some of your mods, ETs, MPH & 60ft times, also interested what times i could run with the 342s with stickys, its ok to list N2o runs also, after hearing some of the horror stories, i'm nervous to even run mine alittle hard (with street tires), but i'm sure they are somewhat strong, so please give me your feedback

Is it true they are only a 7" rear

Thanks

 

7 5/8". I'm running 3.73's but I haven't broken the gears. I wore out the stock auburn differential and broke the spider gears in my eaton differential. I slip the clutch on the launch which is the only reason my rear end hasn't broken. If you are going to just dump it on sticky tires it won't last.

 

only mod to my car was a flowmaster muffler when my rear end went out.

 

That is generally what can result in a quick death for the 10-bolt.

 

119,000 on my M6 car's stock rear, it only has a cat-back. I think the traction control has something to do with that though.

 

im runnin a 10 bolt, its got some work done to it but its seen 11.50's pullin the wheel(s).

 

Haven't had any problem with mine, had mine in for inspection along with clutch, throw-out bearing, slave cylinder, input shaft etc. everything came back clean at 62,000 miles.

 

Just thought I could add to this thread. My car is an automatic and I'm on my 3rd ten bolt. The one I have in now is out of a 6 speed car with the 3.42 gear still in it and I have to say I really like it. Not as good acceleration as my 3.73s, but its lasted longer and on the freeway i can get 21mpg so its good till i get a 12 bolt.

 

400rwhp (mods below)
stage 4 clutch (GRABS hard)
stock rear with stock 3.42 gears
rear end girdle with bearing cap stud kit
315 DRs

i don't drag it much and i've never been to the track. but i shift it hard on the street a few times a day.

sofar seems to be fine.

i think alot has to do with the stock gears, and i DEFINATLY think the girdle and stud kit help.

 

How much does a Girdle & stud kit cost? I'll be installing some 275/60/15" MT street radials soon, i'm fairly easy on the car, but i want it to have some traction, i won't be power shifting it either or dumping the clutch at any crazy RPMs. It has a torque arm & greasable tubular lower control arms.

 

They usually run around a 150 bucks. Check out the supporting vendors as a few of them carry them.

 

I always though from stuff I read on here, was that as long as you run normal tires...meaning no Nittos or any drag radial. You should be fine. As long as the tires dont hook hard you "should" be alright. It just means that your tires are taking the load not the rear end. I tend to take my car to the track this summer after all mods are done and give it hell. I will report back. Perhaps I will pickup a girdle is I have money.

 

running street tires is not a guarantee. as with anything its a crap shoot.

i think a girdle runs about $130 or so, and the stud kit is maybe another $25.

got my girdle used, and the stud kit from thunder i think.

tricky part is you need to have a torque wrench that reads really low to install them...or guess i suppose. i used a In-lb wrench to do mine.

 

Moser axles forged,summit rear-end girdle,Eaton HD posi ,2 set of 4;10 due to wrong set up still alive. UMI torque mount brace,lake wood lower control bars,UMI panhard bar ,and UMI bolt in sub frame connectors where the best mod.Spec stage 3 with 150.shot MSD digtail 6 with window switch. other bolt ons.

 

I always hear that the stud kits really don't fix the true weakness of the 10 bolts, something about how the studs really arn't the weak point?