Rij1 thanks for the pics and info that's kinda what I was thinking too..PLEASE let me know what you figure out and what you try weather it works or not

Jpack24 I agree with you I don't Want to half *** fix it I don't want the problem to come back while in on the road or make a different problem either..did you have the same problem that I'm having ? And that is why you replaced the fork and t-stud and that fixed your problem? If so I'm guessing I have to pull the tranz out to do the fork and stud?

Also my master cylinder blew out and somehow the rod broke.. So I don't the price difference yet but is it worth getting a wilwood or trick Performance master cylinder ..I know the tick master is adjustable ..what does that mean what is adjustable on it ...is it to adjusted the petal throw? And if so does the wilwood do that? Heres the trick performance master I was lookin at

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ls...ormance-1.aspx

What do you guys think..not that imhave Tyne money to throw out but if there is a bid difference and it's worth it I would be really leaning towards one ..I'm kinda thinking the camaro is gonna get stored they way it stands (sense i live in wisconsin and its getting cold without a heated garage) if I have to buy parts anyway..so I'd save up And buy one over winter If its a good upgrade

Thanks Matt

 

Stock master is fine. I use it on my race car with no issues.

As far as me replacing, my friend had major issues with his set up and blew out two clutches and it was all due to that fork and pivot. Since I had to put mine all back together and I have an sfi bellhousing, it was cheap insurance at the time so I didn't have a headache later on. My friends problem was due to the pivot worn down 100 thousandths, and the for showed wear. This is why when I say just cutting and modifying will cause problems. Even not having that stupid plastic ball on the slave males a difference. You may not notice it when driving around, but jack up the car in the back with it out of gear and you will see the wheels turning.

 

Ok thanks, good to know the stock master is fine ..so if I replace the fork and pivot I should be ok?

 

I had the flywheel resurfaced, the fork hitting the p/plate is no more.

 

I have a brand new flywheel..do you think I should try resurface it?

 

No, Not if its new. Is it a stock t-56 flywheel?
I would rather fix the problem the rite way but in the mean time I would find and buy another t-bolt for a replacement and grind .025-.050 increments off the one you have and see if it helps. But if you do too much the clutch may not release.
enter clutch fork in the search area towards the top of the page and you'll see some other post about this same problem.

 

Yea it's a stock flywheel. Do you think replacing the t stud and fork would fix it? Thanks for the info I'm going to start looking

 

It's possible. those two parts wear down a bit where they pivot and where the fork pulls on the t/o bearing.

 

I can't believe how common this problem is!! I don't what to replace the parts and not fix it and have to pull the trans again... Idk what to do lol

 

I think it's because when the trans/clutch is removed the t-bolt and fork are disturbed of its last position and doesnt sit the same because of the ware and tear on those parts.

You don't have to take the trans out. just back it off enough to get the bolt off.

 

how far do you have to push the pedal down before it hits the p/plate

 

I'd say about 1" to 1" 1/2

 

Fair enough and I've done a few Valeo LT1 clutch installs without issue, but moving the pivot back .10" is a valid way of putting the fork where it needs to be when the situation warrants it.

One I need to do currently is a balance plate for 400sbc behind a neutral balance Spec LT1 T56 flywheel for 2pc seal. The problem isn't the clutch, it's that the entire rotating clutch assy. is moved back and the fork pivot will need to be.

So I agree to use new parts without wear, but when the pivot & fork are not worn and the clutch is normal depth, sometimes custom work is needed.

 

Hmm, Mine only hit when I pressed it all the way down about 1" form the bottom, Did you see if the fork is bent? or if the t-bolt is tight?