I consider myself quite mechanically inclined (installed my cam, headers, converter, many clutches on friends cars.. you name it..) but I've yet to do or even see a gear install.

Anyone have any tips on this? I was thinking about just having a pro take this one on, but am reconsidering.

I'm going 3.73's from my stock 3.23's. If I can't rent a dial indicator for the lash I have no idea what they cost. What are your suggestions? thanks!

 

Have a pro do it... you need experience. You will have to make test marks and make sure that as the gear turns the marks stay on the center of the gear and don't stray. For each direction it strays there is a different adjustment. Angles, tolerances, etc. are very close when it comes to differential gears or you will have problems...

I've installed clutches, I'm putting my cam in as we speak (cam is already in just waiting for comp r lifters), and I would still take it to a pro. Honestly, gears and bottom end assembly are the only things I would trust to an experienced mechanic... wiring, suspension, etc. I do all myself.

That's just my opinoin, it's really up to you.

 

Opinions are what I'm look for Thanks

Others?

 

I am what I would call an experienced mechanic. Worked as an apprentice to an ase master mechanic for NUMEROUS years while I was in school.(yes, I was a career student)lol

I have no problem with bottom ends, wiring, even porting heads to some degree, I still get antsy when touching the head with something I know can \destroy it with ease.

I HELPED put my gear in. The ase man did it and showed me repeated times what is what, and I still, STILL, would NOT touch it.
Too many variables, too easy not to get right.

The choice is yours, everyone has to start learning at some point if you are serious about cars, but .........
ahh Ill shut up now.

Good luck, and best wishes with the choice


PS. Take it to a pro, and if he will, have him walk you through.

 

C'mon guys, it isn't that hard. Not an easy job, but doable.
There is an install guide on Brent Franker's page, read that and get an idea if you are still comfortable with what you are getting into.
You will need a dial indicator. Good ones aren't cheap, $50-100. Need a magnetic base too. If you don't know how to use a dial indicator, have someone who does show you how. It is important to get it set on the teeth correctly so it reads right. You also need verniers or hand mics to measure the shims for the carrier.
Take your time and do it right. Having a friend to help makes it alot easier as an extra hand is needed removing / installing the carrier and shimming it up.
Be prepared to disassemble it a few times if you don't get it right.
Backlash should be at the low end of the tolerance when you set it up as it will loosen a little. Eg: if they say .005 - .012, try to be around .006 - .007. Check it in 2-3 places as you rotate the ring gear.

 

I've done it and it's NOT easy LOTS of variables...

Not to mention you need a pinion depth setting tool as well as a dial indicator with a magnetic base... cost me about $100 in measuring tools alone...

for 99% of people I'd say to have a GOOD driveline shop do it..

infact I'm on my 3rd gearset on my car.. and the install still isn't right... (I should've just bought a 12 bolt.. and probably will come spring..

and the last gearset that in there now... EVERYTHING is perfect.. I spent 2 days setting everything up... Backlash is at exactly .008, pinion depth is set at -.002 from spec to adjust for case flexing, pinion pre-load is dead-center in spec, Carrier pre-load is well within spec... and it still whines like a ****, and something in the drivetrain vibrates like hell over 65mph...

I'm NOT happy... and I've been working on cars for almost 18 years now... this is by far the MOST "touchy" thing I've ever dealt with...

 

I'm in the process of doing it myself. I purchased a Richmond kit which includes everything plus a decent install video.

Here is my approach...

Remove the DS and loosen the pinion nut first (use the parking brake to keep the axles from turning)

Pull the cover and remove all the ring gear bolts.

Take the axle assembly out of the car.

Finish dissassembly in a cleaner/better lit area.

Keep the bearing caps and shims separate to each side of the carrier.

Remove the old pinion bearings and hone them out so they just slip over the pinion.

Press off the old ring gear & install the new one.

Assemble using the original shim and the old bearings (leave the crush sleeve out).

Tighten the nut until there is some drag on the pinion.

Install the posi with the original shims and tighten the bearing caps to spec. Check your contact pattern.

If you have to change the pinion shim, it will only take about 10 min (because the bearings arn't pressed onto the pinion).

Using the contact pattern, adjust your pinion shim until the contact pattern is correct.

Adjust your backlash if necessary next.

Once you get the contact pattern and the backlash right, install your new bearings and the crush sleeve and assemble.

Verify the contact pattern again.



Let me know if you have any specific questions.

Scott

 

From doing it myself, I can say DO NOT DO IT unless you have seen others, with you involved, do it multiple times.

This area requires more than skill to do, it requires an art from experience. for me, I did not use enough resistance in getting my contact pattern right. Everything I read said to use resistance, but never how much. Because of it, I was too deep and got whine.

I ended up having a pro do it for me. Do the same.

Ben

 

Don't try it. Even "pros" mess this one up. The crushsleeve requires the right tools to install. That's what they did wrong on mine, the idiots.

 

Hmm that's alot of "don't try it" posts

There's a bunch of shops around here that people are happy with, I think I'll take it to one of those instead.. thanks for the input though... I'll continue to do other projects on my own tho, no fear on that!

 

I'm doing mine right now, with the help of a friend who did his own a couple of times. We'll see how it goes.

 

I dont think its that hard, just take your time, and try to have someone there who has done it before. It might be tricky to get all the races out and installing new ones without the right tools. Make sure you have a dial indicator as well.
Brandon

 

No guts, no glory.

Just be prepared to do/undo it a bunch of times if needed. I have all the stuff to do mine, but it has just not been a priority for me right now.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. Gears don't go together "magically". With enough time, anyone could get it right. If would help if you know someone who has experience to guide you through, but the Richmond video is pretty good and you could get it done with just that. Getting gears installed costs a fortune if you want it done right. If you are getting a "deal" they are probably not going to take their time to set the pinion depth and backlash perfectly. If you do it yourself, just take your time and set everything up perfectly. If you screw it up once, you can try again and probably still come out cheaper than having someone else do it.

It might take a while, but I like woking on my car and not just trusting someone else to do it right. Plus once you have the tools to do it, maybe you can make a couple bucks helping someone else do it.

Dustin

 

99.9999999% of the time this is how I am...

but after eating 3 gearsets at $150 a pop... that basically means I've thrown away $450 for a learning experience and well... for that I could've had them installed professionally atleast twice...

I can build a 1000hp blueprinted BBC race motor, but these gears are really annoying to me... and for some reason I just can't get them right in my car...