FIXED: Vibration above 4000 grand
02-26-2007, 10:50 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: garland, texas, USA
Posts: 18
FIXED: Vibration above 4000 grand
Instead of asking the fine folks of this board for help, I thought I would provide a tip, enjoy.
BACKGROUND: My 96 SS LT1, with 56k miles finally needed a new clutch. It is my weekend / nice day car so planned to go with a mild stock clutch.
I went to an “old school” car parts house (one who actually knows car parts). I hate explaining his/her mistake with the typical Autozone/O'Reilly employee. But you have to pay for the privilege.
So I went with an AC Delco clutch kit ($335). More than I wanted to spend, but I simply don't trust Autozone/O'Reilly for internal parts (the last time I needed a water pump, O'Reilly’s sold me a water pump without the pump impeller WTF?)
So the extra $135 for the clutch was worth it to me.
INSTALLATION: All went well, some of the info found on the forum was very helpful (thanks to all that post).
PROBLEM: Pretty bad vibration at around 4000 RPM (clearly bad for the motor). I also noticed a very small increase in engine vibration at about 1100 RPM. The vibration was evident under load (WFO in first or second gear). Weird thing, the vibration was not detectable if the tranny was in neutral or if the clutch pedal was depressed.
ATTEMPTED FIX #1: Some folks suggested the drive shaft / u-joints could be the problem. This seemed to be a simple and easy diagnosis step. Inspected the u-joints and rotated 180, NO HELP.
REAL FIX: After searching for clutch vibration problems, someone (thanks) mentioned that Centerforce recommended the clutch PP be oriented to the flywheel “paint dab” to “paint dab” but he was not sure if this would help. A lot of posts suggested this was NOT necessary. The AC Delco clutch kit made no mention of this and my worthess Chilton was even less helpful. So pulled the tranny and aligned the “paint dabs” reassembled everything exactly the same (including the drive shaft).
In my case this absolutely FIXED MY RIDE!!!
I guess on some cars this may not make a difference (some flywheels / PP may be balanced better than others).
If you have a high RPM vibration and you changed the clutch you may want to look at the balance marks (if the original flywheel, new GM flywheels are not marked!)
Thanks all and keep up the good work.
BACKGROUND: My 96 SS LT1, with 56k miles finally needed a new clutch. It is my weekend / nice day car so planned to go with a mild stock clutch.
I went to an “old school” car parts house (one who actually knows car parts). I hate explaining his/her mistake with the typical Autozone/O'Reilly employee. But you have to pay for the privilege.
So I went with an AC Delco clutch kit ($335). More than I wanted to spend, but I simply don't trust Autozone/O'Reilly for internal parts (the last time I needed a water pump, O'Reilly’s sold me a water pump without the pump impeller WTF?)
So the extra $135 for the clutch was worth it to me.
INSTALLATION: All went well, some of the info found on the forum was very helpful (thanks to all that post).
PROBLEM: Pretty bad vibration at around 4000 RPM (clearly bad for the motor). I also noticed a very small increase in engine vibration at about 1100 RPM. The vibration was evident under load (WFO in first or second gear). Weird thing, the vibration was not detectable if the tranny was in neutral or if the clutch pedal was depressed.
ATTEMPTED FIX #1: Some folks suggested the drive shaft / u-joints could be the problem. This seemed to be a simple and easy diagnosis step. Inspected the u-joints and rotated 180, NO HELP.
REAL FIX: After searching for clutch vibration problems, someone (thanks) mentioned that Centerforce recommended the clutch PP be oriented to the flywheel “paint dab” to “paint dab” but he was not sure if this would help. A lot of posts suggested this was NOT necessary. The AC Delco clutch kit made no mention of this and my worthess Chilton was even less helpful. So pulled the tranny and aligned the “paint dabs” reassembled everything exactly the same (including the drive shaft).
In my case this absolutely FIXED MY RIDE!!!
I guess on some cars this may not make a difference (some flywheels / PP may be balanced better than others).
If you have a high RPM vibration and you changed the clutch you may want to look at the balance marks (if the original flywheel, new GM flywheels are not marked!)
Thanks all and keep up the good work.
Last edited by jkcnet; 03-07-2007 at 08:47 AM.
02-27-2007, 06:58 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lake Jordan/Slapout
Posts: 654
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