Is it worth it on a bolt-on LT1? They aren't too expensive, im wondering if goin with an aluminum ds would help at all on a a4 bolt on.

 

They're lighter, truer, and a bit more reliable due to their thickness.

I think they've been dyno proven to add 6hp or something of that nature. I'm going with one soon as mine is out of balance slightly.

 

An LS1 shaft is weaker than your stock steel one. A 1LE shaft may or may not be.

 

>but you will get rid of unwanted vibrations... I have the 1LE driveshaft and its attached to my Strange 12 bolt with no modification.

 

Please post in the correct forum. This belongs in "Drivetrain", not "LT1/LT4 Engine Tech".

Moving....

 

Dyno.... 1.1 peak HP, 5.0 lb-ft peak torque.

http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm

 

A good balance and making sure the U-joints are properly installed (will require new ones if never replaced) should rid of vibations. U-joints can cause vibrations if they weren't installed perfectly at the factory which leads to centrality problems.

 

Typically I only recommend upgrading the steel shaft to a LS1 aluminum shaft if you are having vibration problems and having the Steel shaft re-balanced and u-joints does not cure the problem.

I personally don't see the need in spending the extra $$ on a DS if it's not needed. And when it is needed, the LS1 shaft is a good choice for a mild-bolt-on car; if you're making some serious HP and are looking for a new DS, then I suggest calling Denny's and ordering one of his guarenteed not to break Nitrous Ready shafts. His work is top quality, and has a wonderful reputation; I'm ran that shaft in my car when it was a bolt-on, and will be when it goes back together as a TT/N2O car.

 

I have a 1LE DS...its hanging in two pieces in my garage to remind me not to do that again...I have a 3" custom steel one now...I'll lose a tid bit of power to avoid that catastrophe again...

--Alan

 

I was suprised at the difference in acceleration going from stock LT1 to LPE aluminum. I didn't really expect to notice much difference but I could actually feel it. I'd say its worth it.

 

If you ever plan on running a sticky tire then a good aftermarket DS is a must.
I run a Dennys Nitrous ready shaft in my bolt on car and because its cheap insurance I run a DS loop as well.

 

It's jsut a bolt on LT1. I run nitto 555rs though...

Also, im considering going with a 2500 stal, im assuming i should get the aluminum ds then?

 

I wouldn't.... Stay with the steel unit if it's not vibrating.