Read a lot of things, and a lot of different parts combos, but never seen any real instructions on installing a SFI bellhousing on a LT1 T-56, and what type of flywheels, clutches, and hydralic TOB to use. Can anyone shed some light on this? I may be being paranoid, but by summertime, I wanna have some protection for my feet. Thanks guys,

Brandon

 

This sounds llike a really good question for the "Driveline" forum. I'll bet some of the "gearheads" over there could help.

Try: www.mcleodind.com

Good luck!

 

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=72510

Also moving to the DriveTrain Forum. Thanks.

 

I've got a duplicate thread in this forum. Can one please be removed ;D Thanks.

 

Done.

 

My LT1 T56 is now complete with an SFI bell housing. I do have another post somewhere that describes some of my setup but I'll post the details for you here.

1) 8630 Mcleod SFI certified bellhousing for std SBC
2) 460260-1A 168 tooth flywheel
3) 360540 Softloc adjustable long finger style PP
4) 5008-07 Sintered Iron Disk
5) 1302 Mcleod Hydraulic Throw out Bearing
6) D&D performance GM aftermarket style Viper T56
7) 9600 Powermaster Mini Starter
8) Dennys Nitrous ready driveshaft w/ 30 spline Chrysler yoke
9) Mcleod adjustable Master cylinder (from my old street twin)
10) 139003 Mcleod adaptor fitting (3/8" banjo to #4 JIC)

I did my setup with an iron disk and a softlock pressure plate. This forced me to the 168 tooth flywheel. You may be able to find a Clutch & PP to work with a standard 153 tooth setup to reduce rotating mass and polar inertia, and keep the stock starter.

Issues to deal with:

1) Block protector plate needs some minor work to clear the one piece seal housing and the oil pan rails- pretty simple stuff
2) If your using the 168 flywheel the aluminum starter mount will need to be milled to clear long tube headers - Mine works fine after some massaging- I have FLP headers I don't know if Hookers will clear or not.
3) The block protector plate and the bell housing flange will need about 3/16" taken off near the starter bulge to clear long tube headers
4) The transmission rear mount will have to be moved back about 2"
5) You will need a torque arm that mounts to the car structure - Mines a Spohn - I had to modify the DS loop on my Spohn and move it back about 2 inches also
6)The D&D Aftermarket T56 is only setup for a T5 style speedo gear. I had to plug up the T5 hole, TIG a new bung on the side of the tailhousing, Remachine it for the correct VSS sensor and install a Viper reluctor on the mainshaft.
7)Make up a new #4 AN braided line from the master cylinder to the Mcleod slave - The only way to bleed this setup is a reverse pressure, trust me, I pumped for hours until I fugured out a way to reverse bleed. Then it was a 30 second job.
8)Had to mill the T56 to Bellhousing adaptor plate to get .18" clearance for the Throw out bearing to clutch fingers clearance.
9) Took the guts out of my existing B&M ripper shifter and converted them to the stock Viper POS shifter housing that comes with the trany.

Now the caveat, I have not driven the car or raced this setup yet. This arrangement does put the shifter back in the stock location so there's no nasty cutting there. The clutch feels very good and the calculated throw from the Mcleod master and TOB works out correct buttttttttt, the proof's in the pudding as they say. Unfortunately I discovered a nasty little broken piston when I was putting my heads back on. So now I'm waiting for my 355 rotating assembly to show up.

Other considerations: This is freaking expensive! Don't even consider it if your on a tight budget. A TH 400 would be a much cheaper way to go (but not near as much fun)


Hope I helped some

Steve

 

Anyone used McLeods new modular SFI bellhousing for the LT1? I'd like to not have to move the tranny back any. That is the only thing that concerns me about SABLT194's setup. I've read about the Wier bellhousing setup, but it is still aluminum, not SFI, and I want SFI approved.

 

I'm thinking that the modular set up at Mcleod is still not ready for prime time. They were working on the LS1 version first and I think they still had some problems to work out. I also heard (and I don't remember where) that Mcleod may not even worry bout the LT1 guys. You probably should take that with a grain of salt. You best bet would be to call Red at Mcleod and find out he latest and greatest info. You may also visit the LS1 website and search their drivetrain forum. I believe there are a few guys over there working with Mcleod. Red is the owner of Mcleod and he'll give you the real skinny.

Now,

If, you just want tootsie protection and aren't really worried about SFI stickers. I think that with some creativity and a Bridgeport, a standard Mcleod bell housing could be cut down and modified with a weld on adaptor to match up with the LT1 T56. This would retain the standard Pull Type clutch, stock arm, stock slave cylinder etc. Would provide way more protection over the aluminum stock housing. I would have gone this way except I really wanted to try out the adjustable pressure plate to tune my launches and reduce driveline shock.

Steve