psychocabbage

Well, its that time.. Finally. 85K miles and the clutch is now in no state to go casually driving anywhere..

So.. what are my options? I am thinking OEM.. Just because it lasted this long and doesnt make sense to get an aftermarket and have it only last 50K.

How long does it take to do this job? I plan on doing it myself.
Should I go ahead and swap out the shift fork too while I am there?

teke184

step up the the ls6 clutch...athough you may already have that since its an 02.

the clutch isn't a big mechanical issue...it's logistics. getting to all the bolts, pulling the trans out, lifting it back up...etc.

only "special tool" you'll need is a torque wrench and the clutch alignment tool (comes with most kits). would also help to have a trans plug to put in the tailshaft...unless you like a shower of toxic trans fluid.

and there is no shift fork on the ls1 clutch...least mine didn't have it...or it wasn't called that.
theres a slave cylinder

psychocabbage

kewl.. ya I was either going to get the replacement LS6 clutch or get a Spec Stage 3.

Bayer-Z28

Yep, no fork. The Slave CYL fits over the Input shaft. It has the release brng incorporated w/ it.

I did my trans, it took me 5 hrs. The only real problem I had was the Y-pipe didn't want to line back up to my headers... ... It was about an inch off! I had to pry the crap out of it and have a guy hammer the **** out of it to get it to go back in.

All that's involved is just disconnecting everything that's in the way or attatched. You'll have to take the center counsole off to get the shifter out. Take the Y-pipe out, TQ Arm, Driveshaft, Tunnel brace, Crossmember/Trans mount, Support the trans, unbolt the bellhousing from the trans, unbolt two 10mm bolts that hold the slave/release bearing in, slide trans out. Unbolt the Bellhousing from the engine, there are two secret pry slots, one on the lower pass side (4 o'clock) and one on the upper drivers side (10 o'clock). You can squeaze a stubby flathead in there. Then the clutch is all down hill, PP, FW (if needed)

Then put the trans back in in reverse order. As far as clutch bleeding, see my link in sig, page two I have a write up on clutch bleeding, master replacement, and drill mod. I haven't gotten around to a trans replacement writeup yet.

teke184

clutch bleed is as easy as one name:

mityvac

95LT1conv

dont bother with spec, they suck