clutch problems??
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22
clutch problems??
I have a 00 z28, when i take off in first gear and shift it bout 5k and then hit 2nd gear and shift it at bout 5k, Then i get ready to go to 3rd gear and my clutch is at the floorboard and i cant go into any other gears it takes a lil bit then the clutch will go back up normally??
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 567
From: Mission, TX
It's the clutch hydraulics...
Try bleeding the slave cylinder and see if that helps....Do a search on here for "bleed slave" and you should find instructions on how to do this..there are a couple ways to do it, the best would be to buy a MityVac.
Right behind your master cylinder there is another little tiny tiny reservior that holds your clutch fluid...
Check it and see if the fluid is all black..it's supposed to be semi-transparent, and make sure to keep that sucker filled....I used to have to put about an once of fluid in it every once in a while till I got a new slave cylinder..
Mine was black as heck..
The best thing to do would be to upgrade to the newer 01-02 slave cylinder which fixes this problem. Pretty cheap part for what you get, but a pain to install unless you already have the transmission out (like in my case)
If I were you I would do it because it is just going to get worse(well thats what happened to mine) It also isnt good for the transmission...
There are also aftermarket adjustable master cylinders to allow you to adjust how far from the floorboard the clutch engages.
The best of all would be to purchase a pre-bled master and slave cylinder combo so you dont have to bleed the lines, just install it and go.
Any questions?
Try bleeding the slave cylinder and see if that helps....Do a search on here for "bleed slave" and you should find instructions on how to do this..there are a couple ways to do it, the best would be to buy a MityVac.
Right behind your master cylinder there is another little tiny tiny reservior that holds your clutch fluid...
Check it and see if the fluid is all black..it's supposed to be semi-transparent, and make sure to keep that sucker filled....I used to have to put about an once of fluid in it every once in a while till I got a new slave cylinder..
Mine was black as heck..
The best thing to do would be to upgrade to the newer 01-02 slave cylinder which fixes this problem. Pretty cheap part for what you get, but a pain to install unless you already have the transmission out (like in my case)
If I were you I would do it because it is just going to get worse(well thats what happened to mine) It also isnt good for the transmission...
There are also aftermarket adjustable master cylinders to allow you to adjust how far from the floorboard the clutch engages.
The best of all would be to purchase a pre-bled master and slave cylinder combo so you dont have to bleed the lines, just install it and go.
Any questions?
Last edited by stone4779; Oct 26, 2006 at 07:32 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,592
From: N Falmouth MA
^^ DRILL MOD FTW!!!
Check my link in sig. I have pics and instructions on page two for the ADJ master and the Drill mod. ADJ master is a MPITFA! Do't do it unless you have to. -Or replacing the master anyway, for that matter. The drill mod makes for a MUCH more responsive clutch pedal and clutch HYD system.
As far as bleeding the slave, get a buddy, a 3/8" drive or 1/4" drive ratchet w/ an 11mm socket. Take the rubber boot out of the clutch system reservoir, fill it almost to the top.. replace the cap. Stick your buddy in the driver seat. You go underneath. Locate the Braided steel line for the slave cyl. Drectly above it there is a hex bleeder screw for the slave, slightly recessed into the trans bellhousing. Watch out for hot exh piping, I burnt the SH*T out of my arm doing this. You can sneak the socket and ratchet in to the bleeder screw. try to stick a portion of a rag in there too to keep the fluid from possibly hitting the clutch pack. Come to think of it, I'd advise using the 3/8" ratchet, You DON'T want to drop the socket in there!!!!! The 3/8 socket will just sit on the bleeder if it comes loose.
THen from there it's all hydraulic bleed procedures. Clutch to the floor, open the valve. Close the valve, clutch up. Repeat as necissary.
THese take more fluid than you think so check the reservoir every two pumps. That's why I say take the rubber boot out of there for bleeding...it hold more w/o it.
Check my link in sig. I have pics and instructions on page two for the ADJ master and the Drill mod. ADJ master is a MPITFA! Do't do it unless you have to. -Or replacing the master anyway, for that matter. The drill mod makes for a MUCH more responsive clutch pedal and clutch HYD system.
As far as bleeding the slave, get a buddy, a 3/8" drive or 1/4" drive ratchet w/ an 11mm socket. Take the rubber boot out of the clutch system reservoir, fill it almost to the top.. replace the cap. Stick your buddy in the driver seat. You go underneath. Locate the Braided steel line for the slave cyl. Drectly above it there is a hex bleeder screw for the slave, slightly recessed into the trans bellhousing. Watch out for hot exh piping, I burnt the SH*T out of my arm doing this. You can sneak the socket and ratchet in to the bleeder screw. try to stick a portion of a rag in there too to keep the fluid from possibly hitting the clutch pack. Come to think of it, I'd advise using the 3/8" ratchet, You DON'T want to drop the socket in there!!!!! The 3/8 socket will just sit on the bleeder if it comes loose.
THen from there it's all hydraulic bleed procedures. Clutch to the floor, open the valve. Close the valve, clutch up. Repeat as necissary.
THese take more fluid than you think so check the reservoir every two pumps. That's why I say take the rubber boot out of there for bleeding...it hold more w/o it.
Last edited by Bayer-Z28; Oct 27, 2006 at 10:31 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 567
From: Mission, TX
^^ DRILL MOD FTW!!!
Check my link in sig. I have pics and instructions on page two for the ADJ master and the Drill mod. ADJ master is a MPITFA! Do't do it unless you have to. -Or replacing the master anyway, for that matter. The drill mod makes for a MUCH more responsive clutch pedal and clutch HYD system.
As far as bleeding the slave, get a buddy, a 3/8" drive or 1/4" drive ratchet w/ an 11mm socket. Take the rubber boot out of the clutch system reservoir, fill it almost to the top.. replace the cap. Stick your buddy in the driver seat. You go underneath. Locate the Braided steel line for the slave cyl. Drectly above it there is a hex bleeder screw for the slave, slightly recessed into the trans bellhousing. Watch out for hot exh piping, I burnt the SH*T out of my arm doing this. You can sneak the socket and ratchet in to the bleeder screw. try to stick a portion of a rag in there too to keep the fluid from possibly hitting the clutch pack. Come to think of it, I'd advise using the 3/8" ratchet, You DON'T want to drop the socket in there!!!!! The 3/8 socket will just sit on the bleeder if it comes loose.
THen from there it's all hydraulic bleed procedures. Clutch to the floor, open the valve. Close the valve, clutch up. Repeat as necissary.
THese take more fluid than you think so check the reservoir every two pumps. That's why I say take the rubber boot out of there for bleeding...it hold more w/o it.
Check my link in sig. I have pics and instructions on page two for the ADJ master and the Drill mod. ADJ master is a MPITFA! Do't do it unless you have to. -Or replacing the master anyway, for that matter. The drill mod makes for a MUCH more responsive clutch pedal and clutch HYD system.
As far as bleeding the slave, get a buddy, a 3/8" drive or 1/4" drive ratchet w/ an 11mm socket. Take the rubber boot out of the clutch system reservoir, fill it almost to the top.. replace the cap. Stick your buddy in the driver seat. You go underneath. Locate the Braided steel line for the slave cyl. Drectly above it there is a hex bleeder screw for the slave, slightly recessed into the trans bellhousing. Watch out for hot exh piping, I burnt the SH*T out of my arm doing this. You can sneak the socket and ratchet in to the bleeder screw. try to stick a portion of a rag in there too to keep the fluid from possibly hitting the clutch pack. Come to think of it, I'd advise using the 3/8" ratchet, You DON'T want to drop the socket in there!!!!! The 3/8 socket will just sit on the bleeder if it comes loose.
THen from there it's all hydraulic bleed procedures. Clutch to the floor, open the valve. Close the valve, clutch up. Repeat as necissary.
THese take more fluid than you think so check the reservoir every two pumps. That's why I say take the rubber boot out of there for bleeding...it hold more w/o it.
Listen to what he says, and this helps a TON with clutch sticking problems and clutch feel!
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