My cluctch is giong out of my car after many miles on a SLP. BTW was very pleased with it for those looking to purchase a basically stock setup besides the pressure plate.

My question is which clutch is the catogery i should buy. I've got my sights on a Spec.....is that a all around good clutch setup for street/strip for the mods i have at the bottom of this page??? Tell me about Spec if you have had experience with them. And if there which i'm sure is a better cluctch which one is it. I've heard nothing but bad things about Centerforce...right???

Which stage should i buy??? b/c i really only want to do this one time in the next 4-5 years agian like my SLP. I want streetability but good clamping with NO slipping for sure if i want to take it to the strip or get on it hard on the street. If i had to sacrifice a lil streetability for a better hold and longer life per say i would. Please make my mind up with this post!!!

What about the flywheel...i don't want to pay for a alum. but have to have a new one. Is the stocker new good, or shoudl i buy a billiet steel. What's the diff. besides weight???

96 Z LT4 hotcam kit, port matched heads, LT4 intake, 52 throttle and the rest of the things that go along with the LT4 setup, along with 4.10's

Somewhere around 400rwhp

Thanks guys hope this is enough info for you guys to give me a good thorugh evalation!

 

there is a guy w/ a street twin in the FS section for $400. cant get any better than that. IMO avoid spec like the plague.

nevermind he sold it. but if money is not an issue, than get the street twin

 

What do you mean that the Spec is like the plague...You got to go into more detail, please give me some background with your info....thanks

 

well i put a stage 1 in my carin April of 2006. even the stage 1 is supposed to hold around 400 hp. that september i was putting in another new clutch. it was completely shot after 10k miles of mostly highwasy miles and NO track time. tore up a brand new fidanza flywheel amd the T/O bearing broke 3 pieces. 6 months and 10k and i was told "oh well,sorry" by a spec rep.

 

well from that experience i would say a spec is not the way to go but was it possibly the install was not setup right?

any other experiences would be great


HAS ANYONE HEARD OF A ZOOM CLUTCH FOR M6's???

so you guys please shoot me some good clutches b/c i'm not really aware of many diff. brands besides spec and mcloed

any websites would be great besides thunderracing, speedinc, and of course jegs and such

what flywheel should i buy also....alum. is out to high for my blood, and what is the average cost for a install?

THANKS

 

I'm gonna put in a good word for Spec. I like their clutches. I've had a stage 3, and that lasted for about 3 or 4 years, and now I have a stage 4 (I wouldn't even bother with a 3 now that I have a 4, it's actually easier to drive.) ST is the best though if you can cough up the cash. As for the flywheel, I have the spec billet steel one, and I like it. Its all in what you want to do. A new Stocker would work too, thats what I had with the stage 3.

 

I have and will only have a RAM clutch in my car. i have the hdx and it works beautifully. a friend of mine has the powergrip HD and although it does have a semi heavy pedal, it takes 460rwhp like a champ

 

SPEC has changed up their clutch designs in the last recent years. I used to have an older designed stage III, and honestly it was like an on and off switch. It was a pain to drive in town, but when I really wanted to run the car hard through the gears it was great. I have installed a new SPEC stage III this last year, and I have to say that the new design is much improved. After driving it on mile 1 after the new clutch, it already felt like it was broken in. It is much easier to drive than my old one, and it still grabs like a MF when I want it to.

I would highly reccomend a SPEC to anyone, as for the price of the clutch for the power it holds, they are the best. Just make sure you follow their break in procedures and you will be fine (the first 500 miles without WOT, and in town condition driving). For your setup, the stage II should be fine. Although if you plan on using slicks more than a few times a year, you might want to consider the stage III just for the extra protection.

As for the flywheel, you can safely resurface the stock one once. After that, you need to get a new one. As for which one to get, aftermarket ones are pretty pricey, and honestly I personally don't think they are much better over the stock one (especially for the extra money). I am running almost 600 RWHP in my Z, and I am still using the stock flywheel, and it works fine for me.

 

yeah my flywheel has already been surfaced once so i have to purchase a new one....so the only diff. between stock and billet is the weight diff. right? or is it the strength?

well from what i'm reading the stage 2 is prob. to small for me since i plan sooner or later to up the HP. so sounds as though the stage 3 or 4 is the best. What about the 3+ what's that all about. Is the kelvar or the cermac the way to go?

Has anyone heard of a Zoom clutch i've got a friend that has one and says it holds well with his stroker motor. I don't know though b/c i'm not able to drive it he lives a long ways away now.

Yes i want to stay in the 4-5 hundred dollar range for it...and does the spec come with pressure plate and throw out bearing b/c it says nothing about that on thunderracing.com's website

thanks alot guys your input is going to decide for me from your experiences

 

Well, the spec flywheel looks pretty, and I think the steel one may actually be a bit heavier than stock( I didn't weigh, thats just a guess, from having to lug them around all day.) but the spec alot more solid feeling. Also the clutches from spec come with everything for the most part. Throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch alignment tool, even some stickers.

 

so will any flywheel work with any clutch.....per say the stock flywheel work with spec, ram, etc..?

so from all the clutches out there around 500 dollars.....which clutch would be the best bang for the buck all around and if it's spec...which stage?

 

The stock flywheel will match up fine to any clutch. And "yes" SPEC IMO is the best bang for the buck. A stage II will hold up to around 450 at the wheels or so even with slicks. A stage III will be required for more than that. I am running near 600 RWHP with slicks on the stage III just fine.

 

thanks alot so i think i'm going to go with a stage 3 b/c i will prob. upgrade someday

but what's the diff. really b/t a stage 3 and stage 3+ i mean i read about it but what's the real big diff.

 

spec stage 4 and love it. I would go with a stage 4 instead if the 3 to get away from the sprung hub that have been known to come apart in the past. I think it is still a very streetable clutch. Will be a little hard on the rearend as it does not like to slip much

 

I got the stage 3+, but not sure on the exact difference. I think it has something to do wheather its carbon, or ceramic. You might want to check out their website, or give them a call to know for sure.

Again, the sprung hub issues, along with other issues where in the past designs. Their new designs are MUCH improved, and of higher quality.

You can go to a stage 4 if you want. But why spend the money on a clutch that will hold 800 RWHP, when you can spend less on one that is good past 600 RWHP when you only plan on making 550 at the wheels? Not sure if this was RUFST's goal, but it sounds like the stage 4 may be overkill.