I just installed a new Mcleod Street Twin with their adj master cylinder and my clutch fork is hitting the pressure plate. The slightest depression of the clutch and the fork starts to touch the p.p. making a screeching sound. I have checked and double checked that the fork is engaged tot the t.o. bearing and have found no problem and it's pretty clear the fork is touching, removing the nice red paint on the p.p.

I dont think its the adjustment since it does this with very little peddle travel. I did a search and found a little (very little info) but it sounds like I need to modify the fork? I've read about grinding the fork where it's contacting the p.p. or grinding something else where the fork mounts in the bellhousing.

I never removed the fork from the bell housing so I'm not familiar with the components. Pics anyone?
Can I get to that bolt to remove the fork without pulling the tranny?
What all will come out the the fork (spring, bolt, ??)?
What needs to be clearanced and how much?

Any help appreciated.

 

I have a stock master and slave and mine works perfect..... ttt for ya

 

I would contact McLeod. I recently installed street twin in my '97 TA, and I don't have any problems with fork. I remember I read about grinding fork several years ago. You should be able to pull fork without lowering tranny, just pulling tranny a lil back from bellhousing, but I am not sure whether it can be done easier

 

Thanks for the replys, I contacted Mcleod and they said "that happens sometimes". I need to remove the bracket that the fork pivots on so I can remove about 1/8" of material.
He cautioned to make sure that the bolt did not bottom out when I reassemble it because it's a blind hole and the bolt will in go further after the mod. It may be necessary to shorten the bolt.

So there are 3 pieces that should come out? The fork, bolt, and bracket?
Anybody got a pic or diagram?

 

I know this is almost a month old, but did this fix your problem? I had the same problem on my street twin this weekend. I ended up clearancing the fork though instead of the the fork T mount. Now it doesn't scrape, but it doesn't disengage the clutch enough to get it into gear. My guess is the fork and mount are worn enough to not disengage the clutch properly. Anyone know where to get a new T mount?

 

You need to take some material off that "T". I took about .180", that's more than an 1/8" and a hair under 3/16". It was almost too much as I had to use a rubber hammer to get the fork to pop back into position. Once it was there though, it still had some play in it. After the modification the fork will actually be angled slightly towards the slave cylinder. This will give you the necessary travel to completely disengage the clutch. Mine was moved about 1" where before it was flush with the bell housing.

To do it again I would only take about .140" off it. Be sure to clean up the cut with a flat file so it will sit squarely. Also get a shorter bolt so it doesn't bottom out.

 

thanks for the info.

 

You should loctite the bolt that hold the fork pivot in place. Mine vibrated loose over time after performing the shortening mod and snapped leaving me stranded.

 

lol me too only mine came out and wedged it self against the pressure plate locking up the motor solid

when i put in the street twin everything got the loctite !
no problems so far.... knocks on wood

 

Little update. I pulled the tranny again, and shortened the pivot 1/8". After reinstalling the tranny, one of the tranny to bellhousing bolts was too long, and was hitting the pressure plate. After pulling out the offending bolt, I fired it up, and it's still not disengaging the clutch. The hydraulic system is bled, so it's either a bad slave cylinder, or the clutch discs are stuck to the floater and flywheel. I'm leaning towards the latter since it sat for 2-3 months after installing it before I first fired it up. Oh well, looks like I'll be pulling the tranny for the 5 time in a week.

 

Here's another update. I pulled the tranny last night, and the upper disc was stuck to the pressure plate. The clearance on the lower disc was within spec, and not stuck to the flywheel or floater. I guess you can't leave these things sitting for to long.