Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

Breaking Throwout Bearings...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 15, 2008 | 09:59 AM
  #1  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
Breaking Throwout Bearings...

I have a 97 SS M6. About two months ago I broke my throwout bearing. I was doing a 1 to 2 shift and I heard a snap and the pedal dropped to the floor and wouldn't go into gear. I dropped the tranny to find the throwout bearing torn to pieces. I replaced the whole clutch with a stock replacement with a new t/o bearing.
Now I was driving home today and it did the same thing...snap, pedal went to the floor, car stayed in neutral and I couldn't go anywhere. I'm pretty sure the t/o bearing broke again, I'll know for sure when I drop the tranny again.
What could cause this?
Slave cylinder? Clutch fork? I'm pretty stumped. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Old Aug 15, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #2  
wrd1972's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,405
From: Kantuckee Yo'
Post a picture
Old Aug 15, 2008 | 12:07 PM
  #3  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by wrd1972
Post a picture
I'll be sure to do that when I drop the tranny. I still have the old throwout bearing and the piece that broke off. It's seems like the fork is pulling the top ring off of the t/o bearing. For a short period before it happens, the clutch seemed to get real stiff temporarily and then return to normal. Happened a few times. Then snap...
Old Aug 15, 2008 | 12:50 PM
  #4  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by wrd1972
Post a picture
This is the picture of a piece of the old t/o bearing. This is the top ring that is engaged by the pivot fork. It was pulled right off of the rest of the t/o bearing.






Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; Aug 15, 2008 at 12:54 PM.
Old Aug 17, 2008 | 05:22 AM
  #5  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
Yesterday I dropped the tranny and discovered this




Apparently my starter had exploded and one of those pieces was wedged behind my pivot fork which wasn't allowing me to fully depress the clutch. I'm concerned because I don't know how that bolt got there and what it goes to.
I installed a new starter and it starts up, but its a hard start, just like I was having for a while before my start blew up.
Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:43 AM
  #6  
Green96Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,356
From: CA, home of the smog nazi
It's hard to tell from the picture, but the bolt looks like a pressure plate bolt.

You might have damaged some teeth on the flywheel, I would check them very close.
Old Aug 17, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #7  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
I was thinking that too. I glanced over the pressure plate and it looked ok. I also rotated the engine and I didn't see anything that looked like damaged teeth. It shifts perfectly, just has the rough start. I guess I should have looked closer.
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 10:30 AM
  #8  
97 6SPEED Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 857
From: Washington, Michigan USA
Unhappy

It's hard to tell from your somewhat "blurry/out of focus" photo but ..... if that bolt in the picture has a 10mm head on it and is approximately an inch to an inch and a quarter long .... it's one of the bolts that holds your rear main seal mounting assembly to the back of the engine block.

If you still have this apart .... now remove the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel ... and you'll see that one of the four(4) bolts that holds the rear main seal mounting to the block is now missing.
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 10:41 AM
  #9  
97 6SPEED Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 857
From: Washington, Michigan USA
Smile

And, (of course!), replace the rear main seal while you're in there also.
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #10  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by 97 6SPEED Z
It's hard to tell from your somewhat "blurry/out of focus" photo but ..... if that bolt in the picture has a 10mm head on it and is approximately an inch to an inch and a quarter long .... it's one of the bolts that holds your rear main seal mounting assembly to the back of the engine block.

If you still have this apart .... now remove the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel ... and you'll see that one of the four(4) bolts that holds the rear main seal mounting to the block is now missing.
Wow, if that's true, that sucks. I'm pretty sure its a 10mm head and about 1.25" long. And everything is all bolted back up already.

Wouldn't you think that you would be leaking a ****load of oil with one of those bolts missing?
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 04:33 PM
  #11  
Green96Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,356
From: CA, home of the smog nazi
Post another pic of the bolt. This is a pressure plate bolt BTW:

Old Aug 19, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #12  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by Green96Z
Post another pic of the bolt. This is a pressure plate bolt BTW:

Thanks for posting that pic, I remember the pp bolts looking like that, and no, the bolt I found looks nothing like that.
Old Aug 19, 2008 | 12:42 PM
  #13  
97 6SPEED Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 857
From: Washington, Michigan USA
Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
Wow, if that's true, that sucks. I'm pretty sure its a 10mm head and about 1.25" long. And everything is all bolted back up already.

Wouldn't you think that you would be leaking a ****load of oil with one of those bolts missing?
No, not really. The rear main seal housing gets pretty well "baked" on to the rear of the block, especially if your car has more than say 50,000/60,000 miles on it. I found one(1) of those very same bolts laying in my bell housing when I took my slave cylinder off to bleed it. My rear main seal remained dry for about another 10,000/15,000 or so miles before I replaced my clutch, flywheel and rear main seal and put in a new bolt back in the housing.
Old Aug 19, 2008 | 02:25 PM
  #14  
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 912
From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by 97 6SPEED Z
No, not really. The rear main seal housing gets pretty well "baked" on to the rear of the block, especially if your car has more than say 50,000/60,000 miles on it. I found one(1) of those very same bolts laying in my bell housing when I took my slave cylinder off to bleed it. My rear main seal remained dry for about another 10,000/15,000 or so miles before I replaced my clutch, flywheel and rear main seal and put in a new bolt back in the housing.
Strange, when I did my clutch swap a couple months ago, I also replaced the rear main seal and I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
Oh well, it's working at the moment.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
93 RedBird
Fuel and Ignition
4
Nov 15, 2015 08:24 AM
HibachiZ28
Cars For Sale
5
Nov 6, 2015 12:53 AM
Bxlt1
Drivetrain
2
Sep 29, 2015 03:18 PM
PFYC
Supporting Vendor Group Purchases and Sales
0
Aug 17, 2015 09:50 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:16 PM.