Breaking Throwout Bearings...
Breaking Throwout Bearings...
I have a 97 SS M6. About two months ago I broke my throwout bearing. I was doing a 1 to 2 shift and I heard a snap and the pedal dropped to the floor and wouldn't go into gear. I dropped the tranny to find the throwout bearing torn to pieces. I replaced the whole clutch with a stock replacement with a new t/o bearing.
Now I was driving home today and it did the same thing...snap, pedal went to the floor, car stayed in neutral and I couldn't go anywhere. I'm pretty sure the t/o bearing broke again, I'll know for sure when I drop the tranny again.
What could cause this?
Slave cylinder? Clutch fork? I'm pretty stumped. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Now I was driving home today and it did the same thing...snap, pedal went to the floor, car stayed in neutral and I couldn't go anywhere. I'm pretty sure the t/o bearing broke again, I'll know for sure when I drop the tranny again.
What could cause this?
Slave cylinder? Clutch fork? I'm pretty stumped. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I'll be sure to do that when I drop the tranny. I still have the old throwout bearing and the piece that broke off. It's seems like the fork is pulling the top ring off of the t/o bearing. For a short period before it happens, the clutch seemed to get real stiff temporarily and then return to normal. Happened a few times. Then snap...
Yesterday I dropped the tranny and discovered this 


Apparently my starter had exploded and one of those pieces was wedged behind my pivot fork which wasn't allowing me to fully depress the clutch. I'm concerned because I don't know how that bolt got there and what it goes to.
I installed a new starter and it starts up, but its a hard start, just like I was having for a while before my start blew up.



Apparently my starter had exploded and one of those pieces was wedged behind my pivot fork which wasn't allowing me to fully depress the clutch. I'm concerned because I don't know how that bolt got there and what it goes to.

I installed a new starter and it starts up, but its a hard start, just like I was having for a while before my start blew up.
I was thinking that too. I glanced over the pressure plate and it looked ok. I also rotated the engine and I didn't see anything that looked like damaged teeth. It shifts perfectly, just has the rough start. I guess I should have looked closer.
It's hard to tell from your somewhat "blurry/out of focus" photo but ..... if that bolt in the picture has a 10mm head on it and is approximately an inch to an inch and a quarter long .... it's one of the bolts that holds your rear main seal mounting assembly to the back of the engine block.
If you still have this apart .... now remove the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel ... and you'll see that one of the four(4) bolts that holds the rear main seal mounting to the block is now missing.
If you still have this apart .... now remove the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel ... and you'll see that one of the four(4) bolts that holds the rear main seal mounting to the block is now missing.
It's hard to tell from your somewhat "blurry/out of focus" photo but ..... if that bolt in the picture has a 10mm head on it and is approximately an inch to an inch and a quarter long .... it's one of the bolts that holds your rear main seal mounting assembly to the back of the engine block.
If you still have this apart .... now remove the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel ... and you'll see that one of the four(4) bolts that holds the rear main seal mounting to the block is now missing.
If you still have this apart .... now remove the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel ... and you'll see that one of the four(4) bolts that holds the rear main seal mounting to the block is now missing.


Wouldn't you think that you would be leaking a ****load of oil with one of those bolts missing?
The rear main seal housing gets pretty well "baked" on to the rear of the block, especially if your car has more than say 50,000/60,000 miles on it. I found one(1) of those very same bolts laying in my bell housing when I took my slave cylinder off to bleed it. My rear main seal remained dry for about another 10,000/15,000 or so miles before I replaced my clutch, flywheel and rear main seal and put in a new bolt back in the housing.
No, not really.
The rear main seal housing gets pretty well "baked" on to the rear of the block, especially if your car has more than say 50,000/60,000 miles on it. I found one(1) of those very same bolts laying in my bell housing when I took my slave cylinder off to bleed it. My rear main seal remained dry for about another 10,000/15,000 or so miles before I replaced my clutch, flywheel and rear main seal and put in a new bolt back in the housing. 
The rear main seal housing gets pretty well "baked" on to the rear of the block, especially if your car has more than say 50,000/60,000 miles on it. I found one(1) of those very same bolts laying in my bell housing when I took my slave cylinder off to bleed it. My rear main seal remained dry for about another 10,000/15,000 or so miles before I replaced my clutch, flywheel and rear main seal and put in a new bolt back in the housing. 

Oh well, it's working at the moment.
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