having problems bleeding my master cylinder i just installed in the car, its the master cylinder that comes with the street twin clutch. any help is welcome.

 

You have to "bench bleed" the MC with something like a Mit-E-Vac before you install it.

 

ahhh crap....

 

is there any way to bleed it in the car?
do i have to remove it?

 

Kinda confused here? Are you referring to your "clutch" master cylinder...............or your "brake" master cylinder???? It would help to know what MC your asking about.

 

I'm assuming clutch master cylinder since he said it came with his street twin clutch.

 

yep and also because this is the drivetrain forum

 

anyone whos installed this before have any advice, should i remove it from the car?

 

still need help on this

 

Get a Mit-E-Vac loaner from Autozone, and go to:

http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm

And perform that procedure exactly as shown/written.

If that doesn't get it.

 

when I bled my unit I had it on my work bench and secured the little cup in my vice to let the whole thing hang but keep the cup from spilling. IMPORTANT! Add a little hose clamp to the hose at the cup and the side that connects to the master. If not then use zip ties* This will keep a lot of air from entering the lines at that point in the future.

I filled it with all new fluid and pumped the slave in and out with a thick glove on my hand to keep it from pushing in too hard on my palm. I pumped and pumped. You have to start slow or you will shoot the fluid all over the place (which I did and it was kinda fun a couple of times ) You will see a lot of air coming up. When it seems that your making no difference... Either have somone help you or just use one hand to pump the slave while you tilt the master up so if you can picture bubbles inside escaping up the tube to the little reservoir... They will do just that if you aim the master the right way and let gravity and air work on it's own. By pumping the slave and tilting the master in every direction necessary.. all air will escape up the hosand out the top of the cup. Let the whole thing sit for a little while with the cap on it and come back and pump it a few more times. There are tiny bubbles that come out of the fluid cup when you let it sit a little bit. Add more fluid if necessary and fill er up. it is ok to get a little messy. It is better to have more and make the whole assembly tighter then have too little.

Check my other post. I have pictures of my assembly with the mcleod master and a beefy reservoir hose installed to perfection. Best setup money can buy besides the $250 slave cylinder which is also billet aluminum (and no one seems to have). That would be the only piece left to change with my setup. No need to though.. cheers

 

This is the procedure for stock systems:

Clean clutch master cylinder cap area so no dirt can enter the system.

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm.

If you are leaving the master cylinder in the car, use a wire or something hung from the LH hood strut bracket down toward the slave cylinder.

Remove the slave cylinder and use the wire you hung to support it.

Go back up top and get hold of the slave cylinder. Press the pushrod in ~20mm (0.787in) and hold it. Keep slave cylinder lower than the master cylinder.

Install diaphragm and reservior cap while holding the pushrod in.

Release pushrod and hold slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod end facing down.

Press pushrod in using short 10mm (0.390in) strokes.

Check the master cylinder for air bubbles and continue until there are none.

Reconnect slave and check reservoir for proper fluid level.

 

Can anyone confirm that this works? Seems pretty awesome:

http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm

 

It would have a least a fair chance at working. It's like using a Mityvac to bleed brakes, but from the MC end.

 

I think i'm gonna try that method in the link when I throw my street twin and adj cylinder in.