What Is The Best Componets To Change Out In A 96 Ws6 Rear So It Won't Blow Up Behind A Lt1 That Is Putting Down About 400hp At The Wheels Behind A 6 Speed Spec 4 Clutch And 410 Gears? Would Rather Not Change The Rear End Maybe A Auburn Differential Or ? Any Help Would Be Appreciated

 

No way will a GM 7.5" rear hold that kinda power with any resemblence of traction and a 6 speed. There is a good reason that many people switch to the 12 bolt/9 inch setup.

 

Don't even try it. It's not worth it. You WILL end up wasting your money and regret it. Get a 12 bolt.

I have a 4.10 rear with an Auburn POSI, new axles and a number of other things and I'm putting an M6 with a Spec Stage III. Needless to say the rear will come out pretty soon after as soon as I can afford a 12 bolt.

 

Fixed that for ya Ion.

 

While we are on the subject, why is it that some people say the 9-inch isn't good for a daily driver car? What're the pluses and minuses of a 12-bolt compared to a 9 inch, in general?

 

I just like them because they are stronger and cheaper than a 12 bolt. You can also change gears in an hour or so swapping out the center section.

 

I've never heard people say the 9 inch isn't streetable. A lot of people shy away from them though because they require you to either delete your ABS or build your own ABS setup, if its a 3 channel ABS car.

 

Actually, come to think of it, it was Rich who said that he wouldn't run a 9-inch on a daily driver - and what exactly is 3 channel ABS?? I have ASR and all that nonsense, does that mean having a 9 inch would be a pain in the *** for me?

 

On a car used on the street or the strip with a 10-10.5" tire, the strength is a non-issue with 9" vs. 12-bolt since both can be built plenty strong enough. The downside to the 9" is that it is heavy, bulky, has high internal power loss and difficult to setup for ABS. A 9" is ~30lbs heavier than a 12-bolt and it has an additional ~3% power loss due to a less efficient design. A wider choice of limited slip diffs are also available for the 12-bolt. If you have a spare center section around it is very easy to change rear end ratios in a 9", but that is big so what for 99% of us. I change engines a lot more often than I change rear end ratios!

Rich

 

All that stuff is true but the big plus about a 9inch is that they can be built really cheap. $900 for a housing, axles, and TA bracket. Then if you can provide your own center section or find a nice used one you can have a 9 inch built for about 1000-1200.

 

To actually answer the topic creators ACTUAL question without getting into opinions, I suggest you read this article:

http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/te...nguprear.shtml

 

Just spray your tires with tire shine before every run it will last then.

 

I agree that the 10 bolt rear won,t last, it will only take about 7 to 10 5500 RPM clutch drops to end its life.
Had a guy here in KC do it intentionally cause he already had a 12 bolt to put in and wanted to see just how long the 10 bolt would last.......6 5500 RPM side steps later it went BOOM.

 

That article does have a few good suggestions, but in the end, even with the Torsen differential you can still blow the gears with a 6 speed and a grabby clutch. Axles don't fail as much as gears do in these rears.... and considering what he invested in the 10 bolt, he would have been at least half way to getting a 12 bolt or building a 9 inch.

 

i'm glad I have an auto in my car.. 3 seasons and everything under the diff cover is bone stock and yet to brake. I know it's a ticking time bomb in a 10.9x car though. I hope i can afford a 12bolt one of these days.