axle advise please
#1
axle advise please
I may have gotten the horse before the cart here but hear is my dilema.
I am almost done with my 383 build up and I am expecting around 400rwtq and 380rwhp. I have the stock GM 10 bolt with torsen differential and 4.10 gears. The car has P315/35/R17 Nitto 555R's on the back and the car is a 6speed.
I am worried about breaking the rear end but I don't have the funds to buy a 12 bolt or a 9 inch right now. The car is mainly a street driven car that doesn't see a lot of hard launches but I love to do roll ons in first gear and power shift. I have been told that the c-clip eliminator is not recommended for the street because of its tendency to leak, so I was wondering if just upgrading the factory axles to Moser forged steel axles would strengthen my rear end set up enough to handle the additional tq and stress I will be putting on it. I don't do a lot of hard corning with the car or autocrossing it is more the straight line acceleration that I am worried about. Thanks.
I am almost done with my 383 build up and I am expecting around 400rwtq and 380rwhp. I have the stock GM 10 bolt with torsen differential and 4.10 gears. The car has P315/35/R17 Nitto 555R's on the back and the car is a 6speed.
I am worried about breaking the rear end but I don't have the funds to buy a 12 bolt or a 9 inch right now. The car is mainly a street driven car that doesn't see a lot of hard launches but I love to do roll ons in first gear and power shift. I have been told that the c-clip eliminator is not recommended for the street because of its tendency to leak, so I was wondering if just upgrading the factory axles to Moser forged steel axles would strengthen my rear end set up enough to handle the additional tq and stress I will be putting on it. I don't do a lot of hard corning with the car or autocrossing it is more the straight line acceleration that I am worried about. Thanks.
#3
Re: axle advise please
I agree with Dave. It'll help but not too much. No matter what, its still a 7.5" rear and thats the problem. Especially with 4.10s as they weaken the rear a good deal. The internals will more than likely break before anything else. If you're going to launch hard, nothing's going to help that rear survive. There are the cases where they stand up to low 11 second passes and are unusually strong but dont count on it. There's the guys who broke theres just driving down the street too. IMHO I wouldnt put a dime into a 10-bolt to try and make it stronger. Waste of time and money.
Last edited by CamaroBoy96Z28; 10-20-2005 at 01:11 PM.
#4
Re: axle advise please
I agree too, save your money for a 12 bolt and don't beat on the stock one too hard to make it last. I doubt your axles will be the first thing to fail. I went with a 9 inch a while ago and recently did an A4-M6 swap with a street twin clutch. I like the feeling that I can shift hard with sticky tires a the rear will take it.
#5
Re: axle advise please
If you feel like tearing into the rearend you could build it to tighter specs than it came from the factory. This will make it a little stronger. A large part of the rear end failures on these cars occures with the high mile ones, which at that point are loose and you don't want that.
Another option is too go to the junk yard and buy a rearend off the early 90's Z-71 trucks. They came with an 8.6" ring gear. Unlike what most people say, the number of bolts that hold the cover on is meaningless as to how much power it can take. The key is in the ring gear diameter. You will need to fabricate the necessary brackets and put some .5-1" wheel spacers to make it work for your car.
Another option is too go to the junk yard and buy a rearend off the early 90's Z-71 trucks. They came with an 8.6" ring gear. Unlike what most people say, the number of bolts that hold the cover on is meaningless as to how much power it can take. The key is in the ring gear diameter. You will need to fabricate the necessary brackets and put some .5-1" wheel spacers to make it work for your car.
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