I'm starting to save for my LS2 402 stroker project. I know there are a lot of things that have to be upgraded to handle that kind of power, but i can only think of a few specific things. Can you guys give me some detailed suggestions (ie: panhard bar, subframes, etc....instead of just saying 'suspension')

Oh, i already have the convertor and transmission issue solved, so what else is needed? Thanks guys!

These are the parts I think I need so far. Let me know if i'm missing anything or have anything listed that I don't need:

-Moser 12-bolt
-Springs and Shocks
-LCA relocation brackets
-Adj Panhard Bar
-Aluminum Driveshaft
-Custom Driveshaft loop (to clear true dual)
-K-member and A-Arms
-LS2 Meziere Electric Water Pump and thermostat
-FAST 90/90 combo and FAST LS2 Fuel Rails
-Bigger Fuel pump
-BMR Xtreme STB
-BMR Xtreme Duty Torque Arm
-BMR Boxed Subframe connectors
-Sway Bars
-Nitto 555R 315/35/17

Anything I'm missing?

 

Ditch the aluminum DS, get a good chrome molly shaft. See the sticky for sources.

Rich

 

i've never heard of a chrome molly shaft. Why is the Aluminum one no good? Someone else recommended a Steel one, which is what i have now

 

Chrome moly is a 4130 steel. A good CM shaft is a LOT stornger and only a little heavier than a comparable aluminum shaft. Aluminum shafts have no place on high-po cars using sticky tires.

Rich

 

would the stock steel shaft hold up to 500-525 rwhp?

 

I'd worry more about the U-joints than the shaft.

Rich

 

where can i get upgraded ujoints?
Thanks Rich

 

By the time you do that, you may as well replace the whole DS. But if you want to do it, call Denny's Driveshaft for parts and advice (that's where the quote is from). For that kind of HP you want/need 1350 U-joints.

"The "series" of a driveshaft or universal joint is determined by the actual dimensions of the u-joint. While the front and rear u-joint can be of two different sizes the shaft is only as strong as the smaller one. The 1310 series u-joint measures approximately 3 1/4 inches wide. The 1330 and 1350 both measure approximately 3 5/8 wide. The 1310 and 1330 series can have cap diameters of 1 1/16 and/or 1 1/8 inch or a combination of both sizes. The 1350 series has a cap diameter of 1 3/16 inch and the body and journals are bigger than the 1310 or 1330. Remember 1350 is almost never found in production car driveshafts."

Rich

 

i snapped my aluminum one in my bolt on lt1..http://www.streetsleepers.com/images...s/DCP_0060.JPG
Biggest thing to look at if using a stock steel shaft is the yoke/ujoint's. .my stock steel shaft lasted a bit but the yoke i kept twisting the spline's in.. Upgraded to a spohn cromoly and my issue's have gone away.. Best bet like rich said get a good shaft and forget about..

I see you have a built 60e. Get a bigger cooler.. the bigger the better..as well as a bigger pan.. more fluid never hurt anyone..

As far as the suspension goes.. Decide what your looking for.. The BMR Boxed stuff works really well as does they're tubular stuff.. they're boxed SFC's tend to hang a lil low so you can see them but they won't cause any ground clearance issue's.. At least in my exp. i've never bottomed one out. LCa's depending on your tires you might wanna look into a adj. LCA to place a larger slick better in the wheel well i know some who've done it it's fairly easy..

Shocks' are a big part of the suspension equation. A good set of QA1's on all 4 corner's will help you get that power to the floor effectively.. thicker/solid rear sway bar will be needed to keep from tucking that right rear in the wheel well as well.. I would def. look into a aftermarket Torque arm such as a Spohn (clearanceissues might be a problem w/ your exhaust), Madman ,etc... The stock one's tend to bend under HIgh load situation's such as sub 1.6 60ft's.. Well i lost train of thought.. Digest that and i'll add more later...