what is better, aluminum or steel flywheel. trying to get the mcleod street twin package, but im not sure which one.

 

The ST setup with the steel flywheel is heavier that the stock setup, therefore upgrading to the aluminum flywheel keeps the rotating mass close to stock. A heavier rotating mass takes more time/energy to accelerate, but "stores" the energy that helps to prevent bogging off the line when you dump the clutch. If you do a lot of drag racing with slicks, you may want the heavier setup. If you run street tires or do more road racing, you'll want the lighter setup.

 

well from the sounds of it, the light FW that you're looking at won't be as extreme as the one i got.

but i can tell you, my aluminum fidanza is 13lbs...and it spins up fast as hell.

BUT...it is touchy as hell pulling out from a stop. it really does bog quick.

 

how much of a difference in acceleration can 5 lbs really make? stock is 20lbs, aluminum is between 10-15, and teh steel in the ST kit is close to stock i think?

 

It's more than just the flywheel weight, you need to add in the weight of the dual disk clutch (2 clutch disks) and intermediate plate.

 

well...how much is it going to slow the car down with the steel flywheel?

 

It sounds like your oriented toward drag racing; the steel flywheel won't slow you down, as I stated above the stored energy will help prevent you from bogging off the line with sticky tires. Of course if you run sticky tires, you may be in the market for a new rear end.

 

i dont have slicks...i will get a new rear first. but i need to focus on whats already an issue. I still would like to find a decent setup that will give me the grip, and help with my issues [after a strong run, the clutch goes to the floor...after some driving it comes back. but i dont smell burning clutch] that doesnt cost as much as the McLeod Sreet Twin set up. I was looking towards a centerforce, stock fly, and upgraded GM hydrolics.

 

"how much of a difference in acceleration can 5 lbs really make? stock is 20lbs, aluminum is between 10-15, and teh steel in the ST kit is close to stock i think"

um...

stock flywheel is better part of 30lbs...i think mine weighed in at 28lbs on a digital scientific scale.

and the Fidanza was 12.5lbs.

so the difference is pretty big...more then 50%

and remember there have been several dyno runs that show a 1hp and 5lb-ft of torque increase from swapping to the heavy steel DRIVESHAFT to the light LS1 shaft.
and think...that weight difference is only spinning in a circle of about 1.5" radius...which requires much less energy to accelerate. imagine the difference of over 15lbs spinning in a radius of almost 7"

and remember it's not that you increase power, you reduce the power loss in the drivetrain.

just seeing how much easier it spins up, i would have no doubt to say that my flywheel netted me nearly 10hp....

 

oh...and the upgraded hydrolics alone will probably cure your pedal problem.

and like someone said...sounds like you dragrace...so stick with a steel aftermarket or just the resurfaced stocker

 

What is included in the upgraded hydrolics? Just the MC or both mc slave and lines? Would i still have to do the drill mod? Also, my clutch definatly is slipping a bit, so i do need a new one, but i was hoping to not spend a g on the McLeod kit.

 

hmmm...

i don't recall if the lines come with the MC??

and also i forgot to mention that you won't need the slave cylinder since your car came equipped with the upgraded version (01-02).

call up tech at TR or Tbyrne...they can tell you for sure.

 

I think the GM upgraded hydrolics only come with the MC. but the drill mod is easy enough once that is out. Can i bench bleed the MC or do i have to bleed the entire system?