Hey everyone,

I have a 95 camaro with the lt1 6spd, I replaced the clutch with a Zoom and did a lot of other work to get the car running and smogged and now I still have an issue with the clutch. With it adjusted to the max position the clutch pedal goes almost all the way to the floor before the clutch diengages, adjusting it the other way does not allow for the clutch to disengage.

Could this be the clutch master or slave? If so, is there a way to test them?

Any ideas on this issue would be much appreciated.

Thank you
Shawn

 

How are you "adjusting" the clutch on an LT1 T56? I didn't know that was possible without the McLeod adjustable master cylinder.

 

The only adjustment I know of is right where the clutch contacts the pilot fork. There are two bolts that allow you to "adjust" so that the pedal will have to travel more or less.
[IMG]www.lateral-g.net/tech_articles/ats_t56_install/[/IMG]
If you can see this image, the two bolts on my setup are all thread, but the ones in the image are not.

Thanks
Shawn

 

If I could make a guess - I would say that you must have "opened" the sealed system between the master & slave or master & reservoir and allowed air to enter the system.

You probably need to bleed the system.

Do a search there are 100000 threads on bleeding a T56.

 

Hey Shawn, I just put probably the identical Zoom clutch in my '94 T-56 Trans Am and am having the same problem. I have a ton of pedal play now and the clutch starts to engage the second the pedal leaves the floor. Where were you adjusting the clutch/does anyone know what to do/how to eliminate that freeplay or can this be fixed by bleeding the system?

I never opened the system, as it is unnecessary when removing the slave cylinder - no air entered, but I did add some fluid after the install.

Trying to get rid of that freeplay - any tips on how to adjust the clutch? It sure isn't in the manual and I can't see any adjustable linkage anywhere.

My clutch as well feels like it isn't fully disengaging, and it took nearly 800mi to break in and actually hook. It also is extremely chattery - any more luck with yours?

~Kris

 

I think it might have to do with the flywheel and how many times it's been resurfaced. I had to have a lot of meat taken off my flywheel back in 05. Pedal engaged almost right off the floor, but still very driveable, just took some getting used to. Didn't effect anything other than it was just "different."

I put a new flywheel in recently and now it engages in a more natural position. I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but I've read in other threads, from people whom I don't know how credible they are, have mentioned that taking meat off the PP and/or flywheel can cause the clutch to engage much sooner than usual.

 

I replaced my clutch and PP wth stock Valeo units and have had the flywheel surfaced twice. I've bled the stew out of the system using every method I could find.

My pedal releases close to the floor and I can't get the tranny in gear with the engine running. My tranny is a rebuilt one from RPM Transmissions. The thinner flywheel being the problem makes some sense but I would think the hydraulic system is intended to account for that. It does, or I assume it does, as the clutch thins from use.

Still searching for an answer. I'm about ready to try taking the "spacer" off where the slave goes on and mount the slave closer using spacers or washers to adjust it's location...at least to see if this helps.

I know this thread is a couple of months old but I hope someone will see and add something helpful and I'm gonna keep on searching.

 

im getting ready to do a new clutch.

ive got the opposite problem. it doesnt engage until the last 1-1.5"

my caddy engages just a few inches off the floor, so id like to get them a little closer so that it's not such a big difference between the two. it sucks having to get used to the clutches all the time...

and im also wondering if it is fully engaging.....

so, where is this adjustment made again? anyone got any pics???

thanks,
Jeremy

 

The only adjustmemnt for the 93-97 Camaros is if you buy and install the MacLeod Adjustable Master Cylinder. It runs about $300. Otherwise there is no pedal or actuation adjustment on our LT1 Camaros.

 

I just bought a 96 WS-6 and its having the same problem with the pedal engaging and disengaging at the floor. I found this on another board, its a mod you can do at home to make the stock unit adjustable. I haven't done this to mine yet, i was going to put new fluids in and bleed the system before I tried this. Seems to be the solution.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...r-writeup.html

 

Thanks for the link. That looks good. I think I'll try it. Let me know how it does for you and I'll do the same if/when I do it.

 

I don't mean to jack your post, i wanted to let you know the struggle I'm having, maybe we can figure this out together.

I replaced the MC, the slave, and the fluid, after bleeding it by pumping and using a vacuum pump, it is just like before i started....doesn't disengage until just before the floor. I wanted to practice the adj mod before i broke open the system again, and it wasn't bad except the assemby of the MC, i tore the seal by forcing it to much. I have one more shot, I found this:

http://www.ls2.com/boggs/clutch/lt1c...leedingmm6.htm

its alittle unclear what the mechanic's wire is for, but i think you can just pump the slave by hand and it should get the air to the top. I have just been pumping the pedal. I will try the slave only when i get home. If that doesn't work, If i have time i might risk the adj mod, but the local part stores only had one MC and i bought it this weekend, so maybe they will have another in soon incase.

Good luck with yours

 

No prob re: hijacking. I've done this and I guess I've done everything out except dance naked under a full moon and ask the gods to fx it.

The mechanics wire is just to give you a way to pull the slave cylinder into the engine bay so you can depress the plunger from the top. I didn't read your link closely enough to see if it said to put the resevoir cap on after depressing the plunger. Most explanations say this.

I've also used the MightyVac multiple times and that didn't do it then I bought the whole system from GM and that didn't do it.

There are a lot of posts here that talk about the pivot mount needing to be trimmed to keep the fork from hittng the PP. I'm gonna do that. This also compensates for a thicker clutch disk or a thinner flywheel that might happen from resurfacing the flywheel which I've done twice. A friend is giving me a stock flywheel so I plan to install that as well.

After all that, I'll probably do the adj. MC mod. I have my old one around so I can actually modify that rod and leave the new one alone.

Good luck and please be sure to update on here when you find your fix.

 

I am please to have finially fixed the problem:

short answer:
Drill mod, MC adj mod, bleed system like this http://www.ls2.com/boggs/clutch/lt1c...leedingmm6.htm once those are complete I adjusted MC to where wheels start to spin (on jacks) with 1/4 of the pedal from the floor.

Long Answer:
Clutch was engaging at the very bottom of the pedal, i had to put it to the floor to not have tires spin when on jacks. In order of how i stumbled through to a solution, I replaced the fluid and bleed with mity vac and no change (bleeding took 30-45 mins and about 2million pumps of the pedal). I then changed the Master Cylinder and slave cylinder and bleed system again, same method, same result pedal disengaging at very bottom. I also did the drill mod at this time and only noticed a slight a difference in pedal feel, which could be the new MC and salve in combination with drill mod. I then broke down the system and did the adj mod to the clutch master cylinder. (note i practiced on the old MC before, complete disassembly and reassembly with threading all parts, i didn't want to risk the new one, i learned a great deal and made the actual mod go quickly and smoothly). After install of the mod MC i bleed the system with the above way(link above) and then adjusted the MC, i was able to get it exactly to where i wanted it and it grabs as stong as before just gave me more pedal.

Hope this helps any LT1 T56 guys. Any questions or comments send them my way, I'm glad to have sorted it out atleast for me. Good luck

 

How much length did you increase the clutch master cylinder rod by?