2.73, 3.73, 4.11, stall
2.73, 3.73, 4.11, stall
Folks:
I have a 95 Z28 that's a "2.73" car, I think. I wrote a new thread a few days ago saying I could'nt get to 1st gear, and I was told I have a "2.73" car. The auto tranny says "1, 2, D, OD".
Anyways, I'm thinking of changing the entire drive train. The LT1 block has 150K on it. Runs fine, and has CAI, LT4 Hot Cam Kit, Pacesetter Headers with a Borla exhaust. The rear end is starting to make noise, and I'm assuming it's that "2.73" stuff I was told about. If I change the rear end, what can I go to? Can it be 3.73, or 4.11? That should make a difference in accelaration, shouldn't it? What's this "stall" stuff I'm reading about also? If I make a rear end change, do I need to do other stuff to make it in synch with the car? My next move after the rear end most likely will be a stroker 383. Will the new rear end go with a 383? I know I sound lame, but I'm just looking for some solid answers...
Thanks in advance
I have a 95 Z28 that's a "2.73" car, I think. I wrote a new thread a few days ago saying I could'nt get to 1st gear, and I was told I have a "2.73" car. The auto tranny says "1, 2, D, OD".
Anyways, I'm thinking of changing the entire drive train. The LT1 block has 150K on it. Runs fine, and has CAI, LT4 Hot Cam Kit, Pacesetter Headers with a Borla exhaust. The rear end is starting to make noise, and I'm assuming it's that "2.73" stuff I was told about. If I change the rear end, what can I go to? Can it be 3.73, or 4.11? That should make a difference in accelaration, shouldn't it? What's this "stall" stuff I'm reading about also? If I make a rear end change, do I need to do other stuff to make it in synch with the car? My next move after the rear end most likely will be a stroker 383. Will the new rear end go with a 383? I know I sound lame, but I'm just looking for some solid answers...
Thanks in advance
If you go with a stroker motor, it won't require the use of a different rearend. The only way it would require the use of a different rearend is if your intended motor is putting out enough power where it keeps eating up trannies and rear ends. In that case, you will need to step up to a solid rebuilt tranny and a 12 bolt, 9 inch, or Dana 60 rearend.
Think of it like this. If you had a stick and you dropped the clutch at 1800 compared to 3000rpm. Stall is one of the most important mods for any automatic car
http://www.converter.cc/converters/street/GM/2/main.htm
YANK STEALTH 3000
298mm, 3000 Stall, 1.95 STR The most popular of the C-5 converters, the Yank C-5 3000 gives the Corvette a much stronger launch off the line than stock, plus it will dramatically improve passing times on the road.The Yank C-5 3000 will drop 1/4 mile times at least 5 tenths of a second!
http://www.converter.cc/converters/street/GM/2/main.htm
YANK STEALTH 3000
298mm, 3000 Stall, 1.95 STR The most popular of the C-5 converters, the Yank C-5 3000 gives the Corvette a much stronger launch off the line than stock, plus it will dramatically improve passing times on the road.The Yank C-5 3000 will drop 1/4 mile times at least 5 tenths of a second!
The A4 came with 2.73's or 3.23's stock. An easy way to check is with the RPO codes in the glove box. Look for either a GU2 or a GU5. GU2=2.73 and GU5=3.23. Also, if your car has a 1st gear selector on your "shifter", the car came with 3.23's. If not, it had 2.73's from the factory. Just want to make sure you have all the correct info man.
Frankly, I find high stall converters incredibly annoying in a car that sees a lot of street time. I absolutely agree with Bret that more hp and a tighter converter is far preferable. Unfortunately, hp (or torque, in this case) is more expensive than a new converter or swapping the rear end gears. Of those two choices, especially with 2.73's as the starting point, I'd go for more gear. To my tastes, anything other than a very mild increase in stall speed should be reserved for setups optimized for racing, as opposed to driving.
Rich
Rich


