10 bolt carrier swap.
10 bolt carrier swap.
I just picked up a torsen carrier to replace my broken stock auburn carrier. I plain on using the same gears that are in the car now; they are in great condition and make no noise. Is this a hard job? I am going to take the rear end out of the car to do this. My uncle says he knows how to do it; he has changed the gears in his 1969 z28 as well as in his 1967 nova. Is there any tricks that will help make this job easier?
Thanks
Thanks
depending upon what broke in the current carrier,if you can get a current pattern to give you something to shoot for when setting up with the replacement carrier.
are you removing pinion to check its' bearings ?
are you removing pinion to check its' bearings ?
I was thinking about keeping the pinion as it is. I know the more intelligent move would be to replace all bearings, but I really don't drive the car much; maybe 2,000 mi a year. I think the bearings will hold up for my use. The only thing wrong with the auburn carrier is the posi is not working; it is only spinning one tire. I don't drive the car much but when I do I would like to have some traction. I hope my uncle knows what he is doing, I am going to buy a book on building gm 10 bolts; at least I will have all the specs.
Auburn differentials use tapered cone 'clutches'.The tapered cones have spiral gooves on their OD and ride/slide on the ID of the carrier housing.As the cones wear,their material,let's call it iron dust,is mixed and stays suspended in the gear oil.That 'slurry' that is constantly increasing in metal amount as the cones wear,affects all bearings(carrier,pinion,and axle) and causes them to deterioate.Rearends that use Auburn carriers are best maintained by periodically changing the fluid to mimimize that buildup of iron in the fluid.
After you remove the carrier,feel the rotation of the pinion to see if it rotates smoothly or if it feels rough.To initially turn the pinion,you should encounter some breakaway torque,which should not be confused as a rough rotation.
I'll link some 10 bolt rearend rebuild sites/threads.
After you remove the carrier,feel the rotation of the pinion to see if it rotates smoothly or if it feels rough.To initially turn the pinion,you should encounter some breakaway torque,which should not be confused as a rough rotation.
I'll link some 10 bolt rearend rebuild sites/threads.
Auburn differentials use tapered cone 'clutches'.The tapered cones have spiral gooves on their OD and ride/slide on the ID of the carrier housing.As the cones wear,their material,let's call it iron dust,is mixed and stays suspended in the gear oil.That 'slurry' that is constantly increasing in metal amount as the cones wear,affects all bearings(carrier,pinion,and axle) and causes them to deterioate.Rearends that use Auburn carriers are best maintained by periodically changing the fluid to mimimize that buildup of iron in the fluid.
After you remove the carrier,feel the rotation of the pinion to see if it rotates smoothly or if it feels rough.To initially turn the pinion,you should encounter some breakaway torque,which should not be confused as a rough rotation.
I'll link some 10 bolt rearend rebuild sites/threads.
After you remove the carrier,feel the rotation of the pinion to see if it rotates smoothly or if it feels rough.To initially turn the pinion,you should encounter some breakaway torque,which should not be confused as a rough rotation.
I'll link some 10 bolt rearend rebuild sites/threads.
his 1996 wouldn't have had a torsen.
with car jacked up,rearend off ground and in neutral,when rotating one wheel by hand,the other side will rotate same direction,a torsen won't.
with car jacked up,rearend off ground and in neutral,when rotating one wheel by hand,the other side will rotate same direction,a torsen won't.
Last edited by FirstYrLS1Z; Apr 25, 2010 at 09:24 PM.
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