From what i have searched i think there is a lot of misconception on this topic.

10 bolts break because: 1. wheel hop 2. Sudden loads 3. too small

A4 7.5's last longer because the power isn't as sudden as a m6. I realize its a crap shoot, but with a a4 you have better odds. Something i want to find out is from the guys that know 1st hand, not the ones that grandpa told them, or my friends plumber, or my uncle works at greese and go. Those of you that have a A4 with a rear end girdle, have you broken a rear? I havn't seen anyone that has done this yet unless they are making crazy power.

with a a4, ta cover, and drag radials. At what point have you guys ran into problems. I want real stuff here, 1st hand.

 

I had a hard shifting A4 and 315 BFG DRs, but with more power for a while with no issues, although I did have Richmond gears which I installed along with a solid spacer and HD cover with the bearing cap supports. If it's healthy, I bet you'll be OK.

When I put in the 12 bolt, I sold the 10 bolt to a guy with a 6 speed and he killed it after 2 years.

 

I've run my 315's for over 2 years with a 6-speed and haven't had any problems; And from what I've heard autos are more forgiving.

 

My 10-bolt has a Eaton Pro-Posi, Motive Performance 3.73's, and a T/A Girdle with the stud kit, been in the car for about 5 years or abuse, still going strong. My car has only seen 275's tho.

 

what gears do you have?
Get a solid pinion spacer their like$ 25 or something and way better than the crush sleeve.
You should most likely be okay, guys have taken 10 bolts into the 10's and lots into the deep 11's. You also have a a4 so your in ten times a better spot than an m6 car. I wouldnt be worried if it was me.

 

ran 315 TA Drags with a nitroused/heads/cam combo for two years, only rear mods wre 3.73's and a girdle. Handled it fine, but with the new 383 I'm going 12 bolt

 

LS1, A4, 10 bolt rear from a 6 speed car with 3.42s (cause it was free and my Torsen posi was shot). Welded the tubes to the center, welded on LCA relocation brackets, Raytec collar instead of factory crush sleeve, Eaton HD posi, and TA cover.

I ran this rear for many race seasons behind the heads and cam LS1 pulling 1.5x 60 foots on drag tires and running mid 11s at 117mph +. I took it out when and sold it, still working great, when I decided to go 4.10s with a spool.

 

I didn't use a girdle, but I figure this can add a little insight. 245 street tires on a hard shifting A4 bolt on car (Intake, tune, shift kit, long tubes, ory).

Lasted two years with richmond 3.73's and on a hot summer day at about 25% throttle, shifted into 2nd and suddenly blew three teeth off the pinion. Had about 10 or so track passes, never saw a sixty foot below 1.9 and never on drag radials.

 

Maybe you should have skipped the shift kit, huh?

 

Ya but it was fun while it lasted. I think I would get the shift kit again for my upcoming build, but not so aggressive. Just do the stage one instead of the stage 2. The stage two snapped you in the back of your seat, I personally liked it, but don't think my driveline did

 

3500 stall converter, 3.73 gears cutting 1.60 sixty foot times. No girdle, had 315's on now 275's. Rear is still working!

 

forgot to say that the rear has been taking this beating for over 4 years now.