djm_e22

I don't know with my setup in my sig if I will ever be able to reach high 11's n/a with my m6. It seems as if I have heard of auto's doing it with my exact setup. Are they really that much faster?

I hate that I am going to have to use slicks to get some good 60ft times but auto's can use drag radials and get the same 60ft times but also get higher mph due to less rolling resistance from not using slicks. Plus I just switched from 4.22 to 3.89 gears for nitrous. Did I screw myself for n/a 11's doing that?

Also I have no rear seats, no a/c, no power steering, front weld skinnies, and rear weld 15x8's plus what is in my sig. Am I simply not going to get into the 11's with my 6 speed?

Just to let you know I haven't taken it to the track just yet and know I will need alot of practice but wanted your opinions so I don't get upset if it isn't possible. Thanks alot.

TedH

The manual is no slower than an automatic, on paper, and if you develop into one of the "gifted few" it is (on paper) possible to go quicker with a manual than an automatic.

I read somewhere back in the day a story about Pro Stock when there was a rule change and drivers went to automatic transmissions and every driver went quicker except one... His name was Ronnie Sox.

kazman

I actually slowed a bit when I converted from a 6-speed to a Turbo400. Car was a bolt-on only at the time.

Z-RATED94

Ronnie Sox, one of the "gifted few" from that era. To the OP, most cars and drivers are better off with an auto. No offense but 9 out of 10 manual drivers think their pretty good with a stick, when actually it's more like 1 out of 10.

AutoRoc

We won't know until you try it. Every combo is different. Looks like an 11 second combo to me.

Get it to the track! What's the hold up?

JakeRobb

As others have said...

It's easier to run 11's with an auto. Not because you don't need as much power or because you can run different tires, but because you don't need as much talent. Do you have the driver mod?

Put some ET Street Radials on that thing, go to the track, and see what you can do.

EDIT: For inspiration, here's a six-speed LT1 that runs 9's (left lane):

ElevensOrBust

11's can be a direct correlation to suspension and tires. I don't think you have to go to a full slick, but maybe a M/T ET Drag or a Hoosier QTP. I've also been told that in stick cars, a taller tire will work better and the rear suspension set tight. Do you have an adjustable torque arm, lowered LCAs, adjustable shocks?

When I was running 360 RWHP, limited suspension work and shorter ET/QTP type tires, I was getting down to the 12.0s-12.1s at 114-1115 MPH. But the motor went before I could finish the suspension upgrades. Now with the additional power of the new motor, I'm still searching for the right combo. I bumped up to 15x10s and 28" tall ETs, plus I've been told to set my rear shocks much tighter and let the tires do the work. At almost 120 MPH, my ET's should be about .3 to .4 better. It'll get there, just need to find the right combo of shock setting, tire pressure and launch RPM. Right now I dump at 4k, maybe that needs to go up.

Good luck, us stick guys need to "stick" together.

djm_e22

I thought Radial designed tires didn't work to good with the 6 speed. I could be wrong.

Yes I have adj. torque arm and adj. shocks. I'd like to go to 28" tires but I think with my 3.89 gears they won't work to well for my all motor racing. I switched from 4.22 to 3.89 gears cause I plan on using nitrous eventually. But for now I was thinking a 26" tire would be better for all motor cause of my gearing. When you were hitting low 12's what gears and what tire size did you have?

jonesy

with the cam you have the gear change will probably help, I'm actually going the other way, I have 3.89's( w/26" ET Streets) and going to 4.33's, going to make a few passes before I switch to 28" tires. don;t give up on the stick!!

ElevensOrBust

I ran 26" then 27" tires with 4.10s. From what I've heard from some of the big boys running stick, having more tire and less rim allows the suspension to work better. I had been setting the rear suspension a little looser and was running my QTPs around 10-11lbs. So the back end squated. But with the violent shock with a stick, I'm going to set my shocks much tighter and let the larger tire take the shock. I also did research on DRs vs. ET vs. QTP vs. M&H. The consensus among all the online and offline sources I contacted was the ETs crinkle wall would work the best with a stick and they don't require a lot of burn out. Bummer that I got mine on in May and I haven't had a Friday/Saturday (race nights at Englishtown) here where it didn't rain or I had some other commitment. I'm hoping this combination is FINALLY the one that will yield the 60' times that the car should have.

If anyone has any advise for both of us, I'm all ears and open to hearing new things.

jonesy

I run the ET Streets and love them ( 26-11.50 15), I run them @ 11.5 lbs. I run my rear shocks as stiff as they will go and front on full loose and launch around 5000 rpm( 3.89 gear)

AutoRoc

I wouldn't know where to start with a stick. I'm pretty sure the slick tire is best because of how it acts WHILE it's spinning. I think that it plants a bigger footprint while it's spinning than a radial would. A stick car needs tirespin to keep it from bogging when you dump the clutch at 5000+rpm. Especially if you don't have enough gear.

The gear change might be hurting you but VERY little. Maybe a .05 second slower all other things being equal.

2 step will really help take your mind off of launch rpm. set it and forget it. Concentrate on what the car's doing when you drop the hammer. haha

slomarao

a perfect m6 driver will never let the nose of the car fall during shifts. If you can do that your REALLY powershifting. Otherwise your pretending like me a 99.99% of every other m6 driver.

northdakota93z28

i would like to see that

JakeRobb

I am getting pretty good at powershifting 1-2 and 3-4, but I'm not very fast on the 2-3 yet. The upgrade from factory Hurst to Pro 5.0 made it better, but I still need work. I haven't been to the track since last year, so I haven't gotten much practice. Powershifting on the street isn't exactly a good idea.