I am fed up with my 60'. I went to the track yesterday and the best 60' I had was a 2.03. It is all stock shocks and springs except the springs are cut. It has an adj torque arm set at around -4 degrees. It has relocated control arm brackets which put them around 2.5-3 degrees. I have 275-40-17 nitto drs. 3.42 gears and a m6.

I have seen lowered cars hook good. I don't feel like I am a bad driver. I have cut 2.05s before on 245-50-16s BFG radials before. It wasn't lowered then.

Is there anything that will help a pretty low car hook or will it be destined to be just a little slower off the line regardless?

A question about drag shocks and springs. They say not to use them on the street. Why? Can I alleviate some problems if I use a sway bar?

Thanks for any help.

In my opinion, (which isn't saying much) what you gained in width with the Nitto's you lost in the height when you went from the 50 series to the 40 series sidewall. Less side wall, less traction. Plus the fact that most people will tell you that the BFG's are a little stickier. Maybe a set of slicks are in order.

Stock shocks and springs (cut nonetheless!) aren't the best for traction. If you have the $$$ throw some adjustable HAL shocks on there. They are easily adjustable so you can change firmness when you go from street to strip.

I said bfgs but they were regular radial tas. They are nowhere close to how sticky the nittos are. But you are right when it comes to sidewall.

I am going to raise it back up a bit by putting some stock springs back in. Unless I can find some used drag springs.

Street tires, 3.42's, lowered, and M6? Yea, it will probably be difficult to hook.

First you need some sort of sticky tire that is designed for racing. The taller the sidewall the more flex it will have (generally), and consequently better traction. Same for a softer rubber compound.
Looser shocks up front will help transfer the weight to the back and a stiffer rear suspension will more efficiently plant the rear tires on the ground. The front sway bar should come off while you are at the track.

The above is just very general advice, but there is no substitute for having the correct tires as that is literally where the rubber meets the road.

cut springs, thumbs down

are you spinning or bogging or getting wheel hop? chase down the problem that way

I do have the nitto drs on it now. They were pretty sticky at the track but I still couldn't hook it. I also ran with no sway bar up front.

I know in the catalogs they say that drag shocks and springs are not for road use. Why?

The real expensive drag shocks simply won't take the abuse of street driving. Drag shocks and springs are intended for straight line acceleration and will corner like an iced turd on a skating rink. The front shocks generally are 90-10's which really means they allow the front end to rise and fall easily so cornering on the street consists of plowing and bouncing. I have been driving on the street with my (barely) street legal car and it corners like a 1990 Lincoln with bad shocks and tall 70 series radials.... Nasty.

Also I have skinnies up front and 28" tall rear tires as well. Lets just say I go really slow on the average off ramp.

What would be a good shock to use on the street that would give me some good 60's as well. The roads around here are pretty crappy.

....way don't you get an extra set of rims/tires just for drag strip use and use REAL slicks?
Bill....

I am going to do that as well but it is nice to be able to run on street tires too. It can be done. Even if it was 1.8s, I would be happy but more can be had.

BadAzz, it basically just spins. No wheel hop.

Has anyone used v6 springs on the front from a 2.8L?