WHo doesnt do burnouts on ET streets, and still get good traction?
I have 4:11's on stock 10 bolt, and i dont wanna risk doing a burnout with them to heat em up, without breaking the rear..anyone get good results without heating the Et streets up a bit?

 

They won't get much better traction than stock tires with out heating them up. I heat mine up everytime and I have had no problems with the stock 10 bolt. If you are afraid of busting your rear end, I wouldn't race.

 

Just try it. My little bro's car still got pretty good traction without heating them up.

BTW the launch will break the rear end not the burnout.

 

Well im not doing burnouts on them cause i have seen many 4:10 10bolts go to crap from burnouts even on street tires., so im gonna just go right along to the line and see how it goes.

 

Just make sure you drive around the water box...lol my little bro drove right through it when he first ran on street tires. He ran a 14.6 with a 2.6 60'...damn he spun on that one.

 

plus they dont like it when you drag the water onto the line

 

I actually busted my 10bolt during the burnout Heated them up real good, then they grabbed, bye bye rear end. Hello 12 bolt

 

Besides being basically "slicks", one of the advantages of ET Streets is that you can roll through the water box befor initiating the burnout. The little bit of water on the tires makes it much easier to break them loose and hence easier on the driveline. You should be able to do proper burnouts for a long time without experiencing rear end problems.

It is the launch that creates the problems. Basically you want to pre-stress the driveline before launching. With a manual you want to make sure there is some tension on the clutch so when you actuaqlly launch you do not create a shock that snaps anything. Additionally, since the rear is weak, it will evententually go just by good firm launches no matter how cautious you are.

I found that my stick rear with 26" Et Streets or drag radials would be good for roughly 400 passes without breaking. I did this crazy rebuild thing twice and at about 380 passes after my second rebuild I bought a 12 bolt.

The least of your worries is the burnout.

 

explain a "proper burnout"?

 

Basically, when I had a stick car I would burnout in second gear. With skinnies up front I could roll through the water box, and I like to do a very short quick "turn" of the rear tires before I roll ahead to the actual burnout box. If you have street tires up front, at many tracks they will allow you to drive around the water box and then back into it, then turn the tires over quick and short so water doesn't fly everywhere, and then roll ahead to do the burnout in the designated location.

I would then do a basic quick snap with the clutch while in second gear and bring the rpms up to 4500-5000 and as soon as I saw smoke in the rearvie mirror I would release the lone lock (or brake as appropriate), and allow th car to start rolling ahead toward the starting line while gradually reducing the rpms so it didn't snub up hard against the driveline.

In all it is a very smooth and seamless maneuver. I know some guys tend to feather the throttle a bit and some don't. As long as you don't over rev or waste rubber you will be fine. If something does break during a burnout be grateful it breaks there and not 1000 feet down track. I once blew a tranny in the burnout box. I was pretty upset but had it happened downtrack I could have really hurt myself.

It is the shock of the launch that causes the most problems. Any time you snub up 3400-3600 pounds of car and especially if there is slack in the driveline, you run a reasonable risk of breaking something. That is why a bit of pre-load on the driveline is wanted, to avoid the snapping of parts.

 

ET Streets actually suck at the track. Me and my friends have tested this time and time again at the track. The first run is the best run, everything after that and the time just goes up and I start chirping them in 3rd. With stock radials I was chirping them in 4th.

 

Really? I'll have to tell all of the guys that run 1.7 60' at the track aboout that.

 

hmm i guess i'll find out...

 

just to use my last track trip for example.

1st run 1.63 60'
2nd run 1.61 60'
3rd run 1.60 60'
4th run 1.63 60'

 

You must be joking.... Right? I bracket race and ET Streets have provided me a great deal of consistency over the years, and that is with both a standard transmission and an automatic. A good set of drag radials, Et Streets, Quicktimes or other race tire, provided you line up in the groove, should provide consistent sixty foot times as long as the driver does everything else the same and has the car in the same condition.

Now if the tires are three years old and over inflated... I can see where there is a problem. If they are turning on the rim due to the amount of torque and or low pressure conditions I can see a problem. If you simply have too little air in them for your horsepower I can see a problem, if the car is hotter than before I can see a problem, if your clutch is slipping a bit and is hotter the second and thir runs I can see a problem, if an automatic tranny is slipping I can see a problem......

Basically when I switched from Drag Radials to ET Streets at the end of 1999 my sixty foot times became far more consistent. In 2002 when I switched from 26" tall ET Streets to 28" tall ET Streets my sixty foot times also became more consistent. I launch with between 13.5 and 14 pounds in them. I use tubes. They are screwed to the rim and balanced. With a couple of thousand passes on Et Streets I have found them to work well for me. However, tires are only one part of the traction equation. A decent track, shocks and springs, decent weight transfer, proper launch rpms, good clutch and transmission all play a role. Heck I can change my sixty foot time simply based on whether or not I stage shallow or deep.

If you are chirping ET Streets in third gear, either you have a LOT more power than I do, you have a crappy track, or something is extremely wrong with your setup..... In my opinion.