Traction, HELP!!!!!!!!!
Traction, HELP!!!!!!!!!
Hey guys, mods are in my sig. Still not enough traction. Dynoing again SOON, but I approximate 350-360 HP @ wheels now. What Torque arm should I get? I need a driveshaft loop too. What else can I do for traction? Thanks.
hookin up the tires
if you want traction the first obvious thing to do is to get some good tires....i personally have had great success with the mickey thompson e/t series.
As for hardware, there are a few companies that make some decent aftermarket torque arms if you want to stay fairly stock with the design. also, upgrading your trailing arms and other rear suspension parts is key. hotchkis makes an excellent set of trailing arms and an adjustable pan hard rod that all have grease fittings. i have the hotchkis stuff on my 91 and i love it.
for some really hard core traction, i have the southside machine lift bar set up. The kit comes with heavy heavy rectangular 1x3 tubing sub fram connectors that fit really well, but this whole kit must be welded, no bolting here. There is a cross member that welds onto the subframes, and attaches the lift bars which are welded onto the rear axle tubes with flanges.
THESE THINGS LAUNCH HARD!!!! i dont really recommend them for the street unless your not bothered by a really harsh ride. I have some pics of the install if anyone wants to see it
As for hardware, there are a few companies that make some decent aftermarket torque arms if you want to stay fairly stock with the design. also, upgrading your trailing arms and other rear suspension parts is key. hotchkis makes an excellent set of trailing arms and an adjustable pan hard rod that all have grease fittings. i have the hotchkis stuff on my 91 and i love it.
for some really hard core traction, i have the southside machine lift bar set up. The kit comes with heavy heavy rectangular 1x3 tubing sub fram connectors that fit really well, but this whole kit must be welded, no bolting here. There is a cross member that welds onto the subframes, and attaches the lift bars which are welded onto the rear axle tubes with flanges.
THESE THINGS LAUNCH HARD!!!! i dont really recommend them for the street unless your not bothered by a really harsh ride. I have some pics of the install if anyone wants to see it
This time of year you want snow tires. In the spring you will be wanting some Nitto or BFG Drag radials and a cheap set of takeoff rims. If that doesn't handle it you will be looking at ET Streets.
Originally posted by tnthub
This time of year you want snow tires. In the spring you will be wanting some Nitto or BFG Drag radials and a cheap set of takeoff rims. If that doesn't handle it you will be looking at ET Streets.
This time of year you want snow tires. In the spring you will be wanting some Nitto or BFG Drag radials and a cheap set of takeoff rims. If that doesn't handle it you will be looking at ET Streets.
BTW, tnthub i spend alot of time up at NED, where are you from?
ok, so where can I get some CHEAP rims (Only need 2 for back) and what size tires/rims would you go with. I will change them before going to the track (1 hour ride each way) and then change them back when I get home. (I Want to eventually run a 10.5 or better.) Recommendations?
I have my ET Streets mounted on a second set of rims. I change them after I get to the track. Drag Radials I would drive back and forth on no problem.
10.5's????? You will probably have something that hooks a lot better than drag radials by then and they will need to be screwed to the rim to keep them from turning. Heck, even I have to screw my tires to the rim. Just a high 1.5 or low 1.6 sixty foot time is enough to require rim screws.
I "live" at NED every points day (usually Sundays) and at Oxford on Saturdays. I am from Maine (check my profile and home page).
10.5's????? You will probably have something that hooks a lot better than drag radials by then and they will need to be screwed to the rim to keep them from turning. Heck, even I have to screw my tires to the rim. Just a high 1.5 or low 1.6 sixty foot time is enough to require rim screws.
I "live" at NED every points day (usually Sundays) and at Oxford on Saturdays. I am from Maine (check my profile and home page).
rims screws!?!
hey well i know who that rim screw guy is, and he is definitely the points champion at NED
.....however ive never heard of anyone complain about having a tire turning in the rim in even the 9 second range.....people run 10's and 9's all the time with just ET streets
The ET streets from M/T are an excellent tire....and the reason for this is that they are of the SAME COMPOUND as the ET drags which are a regular slick. The only difference is the several small grooves in the tire which pretend to be tread so the tire can pas DOT. If anyone remembers the article awhile back in car craft...they tested all the popular drag tires and the ET series tires whomped on any of the other street tires....also, they tested them vs the regular ET drags and the difference in 60' times was negligible like several thousandths....which seems like alot, but could be attributed to inconsistency in the runs.
.....however ive never heard of anyone complain about having a tire turning in the rim in even the 9 second range.....people run 10's and 9's all the time with just ET streetsThe ET streets from M/T are an excellent tire....and the reason for this is that they are of the SAME COMPOUND as the ET drags which are a regular slick. The only difference is the several small grooves in the tire which pretend to be tread so the tire can pas DOT. If anyone remembers the article awhile back in car craft...they tested all the popular drag tires and the ET series tires whomped on any of the other street tires....also, they tested them vs the regular ET drags and the difference in 60' times was negligible like several thousandths....which seems like alot, but could be attributed to inconsistency in the runs.
Mine spun. I have Cragar Superlite II rims and they spun enough to bend the valvestems over after a couple of weeks. It isn't that I am losing ET from the spinning, just that I like the tire not to move. I followed the instructions from MT so mine are complete overkill, but a 3600 pound car with enough power to lift even one tire on launch can probably spin a tire on a rim I would think... Each car is different and I know some folks running a lot quicker than I that do not have the same problem. I just want you to be prepared... I really like the ET Streets.
Thanks for the compliment.
Thanks for the compliment.
Like Ted, I too have found I need to screw the my ET Drags to the rims. Be careful in length selection so you don't go thru the bead and create a leak. My car runs in the low to mid 1.5's for 60' times.
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Javi Fierros
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