TH400 Questions
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 472
From: Mobile, Alabama
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,037
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500' elevation
mongse_1
As I said before, the Ultrabell is only for the bellhousing/flexplate shield. You still need a tranny shield to cover the rest of the tranny in case a clutch hub explodes. The price of a good one piece kevlar flexplate/tranny shield is the same price as an Ultrabell.
I saw a top alcohol funny car (Dodge charger using a TF727 tranny) explode a tranny. Part of a clutch hub broke through the case, went through the kevlar shield, through the floorboard on the passenger side, off the passenger side door bar and denting it, through the door, blowing out the window and sailed 300 feet over the grandstand.
Nobody was hurt but if the hub went out the drivers side, it would probably have cut off the drivers legs. There was so much force that the kevlar shield didn't even slow it down.
I was sitting in the staging lanes right behind the car waiting to make my next pass. Loud bang and the passenger window blew out of the car. Of course everyone had to go see what happened instead of pushing the car off the line to start a cleanup.
Ultrabells are cool if you take a spare tranny to the track. With no bellhousing on it, it takes less space to store it away.
To use an Ultrabell you also need a maximum of a 10" converter. Anything bigger won't clear the mount bolts.
As I said before, the Ultrabell is only for the bellhousing/flexplate shield. You still need a tranny shield to cover the rest of the tranny in case a clutch hub explodes. The price of a good one piece kevlar flexplate/tranny shield is the same price as an Ultrabell.
I saw a top alcohol funny car (Dodge charger using a TF727 tranny) explode a tranny. Part of a clutch hub broke through the case, went through the kevlar shield, through the floorboard on the passenger side, off the passenger side door bar and denting it, through the door, blowing out the window and sailed 300 feet over the grandstand.
Nobody was hurt but if the hub went out the drivers side, it would probably have cut off the drivers legs. There was so much force that the kevlar shield didn't even slow it down.
I was sitting in the staging lanes right behind the car waiting to make my next pass. Loud bang and the passenger window blew out of the car. Of course everyone had to go see what happened instead of pushing the car off the line to start a cleanup.
Ultrabells are cool if you take a spare tranny to the track. With no bellhousing on it, it takes less space to store it away.
To use an Ultrabell you also need a maximum of a 10" converter. Anything bigger won't clear the mount bolts.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 249
From: New Haven,MI
I'm still trying to get my Hurst Q-stick to work. Made a plate to mount the shifter to, looks good and the placement is great. I'm haveing the problem with the shifter linkage on the trans pan. I have a big *** pan from Hughes. So the shift linkage doesn't fit on the 1/4" thick pan rail. It's never a bolt-on and go with me.
I have a th400, Hughes insides. Full manual reverse valvebody and trans brake. Havn't got a converter yet still up in the air about that. Lokar dipstick,Ultrabell,The wheel 153 tooth flexplate.Bmr crossmember.Plan to buy a Perma-cool cooler and mount it in the front left fender.
I know this is your thread but if someone has any ideas on that shifter linkage problem I have please help me out.
I have a th400, Hughes insides. Full manual reverse valvebody and trans brake. Havn't got a converter yet still up in the air about that. Lokar dipstick,Ultrabell,The wheel 153 tooth flexplate.Bmr crossmember.Plan to buy a Perma-cool cooler and mount it in the front left fender.
I know this is your thread but if someone has any ideas on that shifter linkage problem I have please help me out.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 756
From: Indiana
i am using an Ultrabell. i would think a normal flexplate shield would be a PITA in our small drivetrain tunnels. seems like the bolts are actaully alot easier to get to with the ultrabell than with the 4l60e and T56's too
i am using a Cheeta SCS. love it
i used Madman's TH400 dipstick, fit good. i have heard that all the aftermarket dipsticks are too short and make filling the fluid a major pain.
it was very expensive ($190), but i am using the little cooler that Art Carr sells, made by a company called Setrab. it is pretty small and i mounted it on the radiator, but it works AWESOME. my tranny never gets above 150*, and 90% of the time on the street is under 130* with a 4300 converter (this is with a stock fluid pan also). definitly worth the extra $, and doesnt rob as much radiator space as most other coolers. glad i let them talk me into blowing the big $ on it.
i used LT1 edit for the programming. somebody provided me with a file that is out there somebody made that has all the tranny functions disabled. sorry i cant remember who made it to give them credit. i then just copied all my tuning tables over to that new file. i am using the proper reluctor and sensor so my speedometer still works. you will need an A4 harness connector though. if you want that PCM file for the th400 swap let me know and i can send it to you.
i am using a Cheeta SCS. love it
i used Madman's TH400 dipstick, fit good. i have heard that all the aftermarket dipsticks are too short and make filling the fluid a major pain.
it was very expensive ($190), but i am using the little cooler that Art Carr sells, made by a company called Setrab. it is pretty small and i mounted it on the radiator, but it works AWESOME. my tranny never gets above 150*, and 90% of the time on the street is under 130* with a 4300 converter (this is with a stock fluid pan also). definitly worth the extra $, and doesnt rob as much radiator space as most other coolers. glad i let them talk me into blowing the big $ on it.
i used LT1 edit for the programming. somebody provided me with a file that is out there somebody made that has all the tranny functions disabled. sorry i cant remember who made it to give them credit. i then just copied all my tuning tables over to that new file. i am using the proper reluctor and sensor so my speedometer still works. you will need an A4 harness connector though. if you want that PCM file for the th400 swap let me know and i can send it to you.
Thread Starter
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Originally posted by chevyguy3
i am using an Ultrabell. i would think a normal flexplate shield would be a PITA in our small drivetrain tunnels. seems like the bolts are actaully alot easier to get to with the ultrabell than with the 4l60e and T56's too
i am using a Cheeta SCS. love it
i used Madman's TH400 dipstick, fit good. i have heard that all the aftermarket dipsticks are too short and make filling the fluid a major pain.
it was very expensive ($190), but i am using the little cooler that Art Carr sells, made by a company called Setrab. it is pretty small and i mounted it on the radiator, but it works AWESOME. my tranny never gets above 150*, and 90% of the time on the street is under 130* with a 4300 converter (this is with a stock fluid pan also). definitly worth the extra $, and doesnt rob as much radiator space as most other coolers. glad i let them talk me into blowing the big $ on it.
i used LT1 edit for the programming. somebody provided me with a file that is out there somebody made that has all the tranny functions disabled. sorry i cant remember who made it to give them credit. i then just copied all my tuning tables over to that new file. i am using the proper reluctor and sensor so my speedometer still works. you will need an A4 harness connector though. if you want that PCM file for the th400 swap let me know and i can send it to you.
i am using an Ultrabell. i would think a normal flexplate shield would be a PITA in our small drivetrain tunnels. seems like the bolts are actaully alot easier to get to with the ultrabell than with the 4l60e and T56's too
i am using a Cheeta SCS. love it
i used Madman's TH400 dipstick, fit good. i have heard that all the aftermarket dipsticks are too short and make filling the fluid a major pain.
it was very expensive ($190), but i am using the little cooler that Art Carr sells, made by a company called Setrab. it is pretty small and i mounted it on the radiator, but it works AWESOME. my tranny never gets above 150*, and 90% of the time on the street is under 130* with a 4300 converter (this is with a stock fluid pan also). definitly worth the extra $, and doesnt rob as much radiator space as most other coolers. glad i let them talk me into blowing the big $ on it.
i used LT1 edit for the programming. somebody provided me with a file that is out there somebody made that has all the tranny functions disabled. sorry i cant remember who made it to give them credit. i then just copied all my tuning tables over to that new file. i am using the proper reluctor and sensor so my speedometer still works. you will need an A4 harness connector though. if you want that PCM file for the th400 swap let me know and i can send it to you.
Rich Krause
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 756
From: Indiana
btw, i forgot to mention that you have to use an A4 pcm file for the speedometer to work properly. that is why all the tranny functions need to be disabled in the file as opposed to an M6 file which wouldnt know the difference since the all it does is read the speed sensor and activate the skipshift and reverse lockout.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 472
From: Mobile, Alabama
Ed Wright made the file that most of us are using, Ed was nice enough to post it on the LT1_Edit list a couple years ago.
I'll upload my .LT1 file to my website if anyone needs it. My speedo works fine.
I'll upload my .LT1 file to my website if anyone needs it. My speedo works fine.
Thread Starter
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Originally posted by Brady_96Z
Ed Wright made the file that most of us are using, Ed was nice enough to post it on the LT1_Edit list a couple years ago.
I'll upload my .LT1 file to my website if anyone needs it. My speedo works fine.
Ed Wright made the file that most of us are using, Ed was nice enough to post it on the LT1_Edit list a couple years ago.
I'll upload my .LT1 file to my website if anyone needs it. My speedo works fine.
Rich Krause
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 472
From: Mobile, Alabama
I know, for a fact, that these parts will provide a working speedometer in a TH400 equipped '96 twin turbo Z28 (Teal Green, Hardtop) 
Reluctor: GM part #8655315
Pickup: GM part #8655291
Connector: GM part #12085498
LT1_Edit File:
TH400.LT1
Reluctor: GM part #8655315
Pickup: GM part #8655291
Connector: GM part #12085498
LT1_Edit File:
TH400.LT1
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