Well I finally decided that traction was my friend so I'm getting a set of et streets (26" x 10.5" - 16's) to mount on my salad shooters. I know most people have no problem running the et streets w/o tubes and w/o rim screws, but I would rather error on the side of caution and invest in both of these things.

What rim screws do I need to purchase (I read that someone bought some and they were too long or something) and what size tube do I need to get? Also, where can I get the exact right ones that will work w/o any hassle?

Thanks guys...

 

Buy Moroso rims screws. They're only needed if you produce enough torque to spin the tire on the rim. Use shoe polish and put a mark on the tire at the valve stem. After a few launches, you can see if the tire is spinning on the rim or not. If you use tubes, you should always use rims screws because if the tire slips, it will tear the valve stem off the tube.

MT reccomends the 9552 tube for those tires which is classified a 9x15 tube.

 

Thanks a bunch Stephen...

Now would you recommend going w/ the tubes/rim screws? My dad is wanting me to but I have seen and read about many people run them tubeless and screwless.

 

Why a 10.5? The 11.5 ET Street will fit fine on salad shooters and has ~1.5" wider tread.

Rich Krause

 

I use rim screws because I was rotating the tires on the rims. I've never used tubes but I'm considering it just to help with traction.

Tubes help hold air in the tire. They also stiffen the sidewalls to keep deflection down. All this can make the 60' times more consistant.

My next set of slicks may have tubes in them.

The 26-10.5-16 recommends a 9" rim. The sidewall width is 10.3" and the tread is 8.4". The tire is 25.9" tall.

the 26-11.5-16 recommends a 10" rim. The sidewall width is 10.8" and the tread width is 9.7". The tire is 26.2" tall.

Just make sure of all your measurements before ordering a set of tires that won't fit without sheetmetal work.

 

Stephen: MT recommends an 8-10" rim for the 26x11.5x16" ET Street. They do fit without any hacking the car and I wanted the original poster to know that prior to buying. I was using this tire on salad shooters last year and did as well as a 1.51sec 60' with a stiff, lowered suspension setup. They work pretty well. I think the 10.5 would not be as good.

Rich Krause

 

Word to the wise never run a MT ET Street without tubes! If we are talking about the same tire? THis is a very fexible sidewall not to mention when you screw the wheel screw into the bead of the tire its possible to lift the bead just enought to not allow a good seal and you get to find out how ****ty the seal is when your comming thru the traps at 140 to 150mph! Well may be 110mph for some. Use the tube recommended for the size tire you go with. Either MT catalog will tell you or you coulf ask the salesman at Summit of Jegs.

The tire should be used with a tube!

 

Thanks for the help guys.

rskrause...
Did you run tubes or rim screws with that setup? Did you use dish soap or anything else when you put the tire on (sounds weird but I read that on another post)? Sorry for bugging ya guys I just want to make the right choice before I go ahead and spend this money. It's a lot for a soon to be college freshman on a big time budget.

 

In my opinion................At your level of performance which is very simular to mine. With a 16" ET street you don't need tubes or screws. I don't use either and if you've ever watched them being mounted you'd loose your worries of them ever spinning or coming off of the rims at our power levels. They go on HARD. Now keep in mind that I'm talking about the 16" version on stock wheels. And as Rich said the 11.50s will work on stock wheels and have a wider footprint.
The most important thing that you can do is: do what you feel safe doing. If you are the slightest bit antsy about no tubes. Then put them in.

 

I'm not antsy at all. My dad is just a little bit b/c he is just going solely off of what m/t "recommends." No biggie. I have to pay so I'll get the 11.5's w/o tubes or rim screws. If I start having problems, I can always put them in later.

 

I follow the manufacturer recommendations. I am very pleased with the ET Streets.

I ran 26 x 11.5 x 15 for a couple of seasons with no problems once I put in tubes and rim screws. Even my street legal car would spin the tires on the rim. The tubes are there for a reason, they help with supporting the sidewall and provide an extra layer of insurance against a flat, plust they hold air better. Use lots of talc (baby powder) when you put them in.

I followed Mickey Thompson's diagram for installing the rim screws. It is a bit tricky to get the holes drilled correctly, but once done it is no bug deal to use the screws. I just get standard rim screws from Summit and I do change them whenever I change tires. I know I could probably get 2-3 uses out of them but why increase thechances of throwing sharp parts off at speed and carving up someones slicks to save a couple of dollars?

I used a 10" rim of the 26 x 11.5 x 15 tires, Now I am running 28 x 12.5 x 15 and I am still very satisfied with the Mickeys, their performance and longevity.

My advice is to follow the manufacturers instructions. They don't want you to have a problem and that is a good thing, especially at the top end of the track.

 

Al ... you ever marked yours? ... My Hoosiers were moving a 1/2 per launch even when I was just bolt on ...

 

Yep. But just recently so I can watch and keep track. I really doubt that they'll move though because the 16 ET streets go on the factory rims so hard. 60 to 90 psi just to get them to seat.
Now when I go to aftermarket rims after the heads cam this winter it will be a whole new ballgame with different players.

 

I don't like tubes, you don't get a good contact patch out of your slick. I like rim screws though cause for every screw you will have a wrinkle.