I have the chance to buy a 2000 z28, auto, low miles, all original. I currently race a heads up index 8.0 class (1/8 mile Pro tree).. I would like to keep this car a street car but be able to run this class with it. I know nothing of the new camaros--mine is a 79 z28. I need suggestions for power, transmission, stall, gear, etc that will work with this car (2000).. Thanks
Pro tree so I need the car to react quickly.

 

You can put 3.73 gears, say a 3500-3800 converter, drag tires, cai, and exh and be way faster than 8.0 in a LS1.

Randy

 

A few bolt-ons will will easily get 8.0 in the eighth. IMO you will need a trans brake to get the car to launch on a pro .500 tree.

 

Good tires, full exhaust, cold air induction, I would only go for around 2800 on the stall if you want to keep the internals stock. Airbag in the rear, lose the sway bar, loose shocks up front, stockers in the back are fine. 8.0 is a tough call becasue a lot of 8.0 depends on the track elevation and weather conditions. You may need a roll bar depending on your track sanction. That will stiffen it up a bit.

I skipped the 8.0 mark and went straight to 7.5's from 8.4's by the addition of a stroker but I have an LT1, not an LS1 which definitely has more power out of the box. You may need a mild cam and a computer tune.

I would suggest adapting to the weather conditions by using weight removal rather than tuning, although you could find a couple of stock computers at a local boneyard and swap them around depending on weather conditions. Most rules will require the stock computer but not the stock tune. If you had different tunes your could swap them out as necessary to hit the 8.0 mark more consistently.

Also, you said it was a .500 pro tree, not a .400 so you should be able to handle that from a reflex standpoint.

Also, you will need to work on your staging position so you have the identical launch point every time to keep your reactions consistent. Tire pressure, both front and rear will have a definite impact on your lights.

8.0 isn't ver quick in the scope of things but it is certainly quick enough to be fun. The 1/8 is a different thing from the 1/4. I learned on a 1/8 track and everything happens really fast. You may actually want to go with 4.10's instead of 3.73's so the third gear shift comes earlier in the run instead of 100 feet before the finish line.

 

Totally stock LS1s will ET best with a 3800-4200 stall. I had a 3500 and it wasn't quite enough.
My 2000 Formula ran mid to high 7s with Lid, loudmouth, ST3800, ET streets, and a Predator tuner with 3.42 gears.
I would try using shift points to hit the index.
And with the LS1 pulling 6200 rpm it will not even shift to 3rd in the 1/8 with 3.73s

 

Wow. That is a pretty high stall for a street legal car with stock valvetrain.... I had no idea a stock LS1 would want that much stall.

He probably wants a decent tranny cooler and a lockup switch for street use.

 

Yeah you'll know that you have a converter in there But anything over 44-45mph and it locks up tight. The Yank ST3800 took 8 tenths off of my 1/4 mile et. That's how badly LS1s need a high stall to get them into the power right off the line and to keep the rpms up thru the shifts.
LS1 valve train in an A4 car will take 6150rpm shift points for years. I ran mine 4 years including over 400 quarter mile passes before going heads/cam.
Now I'm shifting at 6500 with a 4400 stall on the stock bottom end. Been 2 years doing that.

I'm running a cooler and a TransGo reprogramming kit. But the Predator or other such tuning is the key. The torque managment as to be dealt with.

 

Ted, my neighbor's '02 Ram Air TA just went 12.90 at 109. Street tires 6 speed, cold air package and cat back. Damn LS1's really run. I had all the bolt-ons to get my LT1 to break into the 12's. Oh yea he did it with a 2.0 60" It was in good air at a sea level track.