no problem sweetcheeks..

 

Javier, there is no "bad" side to the higher lifts. Just so ya know the build I am currently puting together has about 12k in the bottom end alone, so its not about the budget on that build.
Now maybe the next build, because I have a DD that I want to play with some, may just use some of these tricks and a lower lift cam.Just trying to maximize the low budgeted DD options out there. You have seen it as many times as I have, newbs asking the same things over and over and things like "free mods" just don't add up or really pay off.
I am cool with you calling him sweetcheeks so long as he doesn't respond by calling you thunder lips lol

 

You seem to think like I do. Why rework the heads and make them bigger when S/E cars run stock unported heads and run quicker. I am finding out that there is more to the whole S/E car than just the heads/cam.
Chuck is your friend. Pay attention.

 

These are things that I would like to know as well.

 

you guys need to realize those cars dead hook and are very efficient......your not going to get that out of a street car.

The trans don't last very long, there is alot to it. not saying it can't be done but you can run the same for cheaper and not be as radical/borderline.

something you could run for 200-300 passes before you need to tear it down.

 

It's already been stated that these aren't "stock unported heads" you pull off a junkyard car.

Looks like it's cheaper to get a set of hogged out street heads versus a stock eliminator prepped set of heads.

 

Mdacton I totally realise this.......just exploring ideas.

Javier I have to go and find the article I was reading it was way too much to quote and is what got me into the topic. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...nfo/index.html

I am not misled nor confused that I can promise ya. Just curious and investigative.

 

I never intended for anyone to think I meant a set of junkyards heads. Just said they were stock, unported. How much does a set of S/E heads cost anyway? I know how much, just wondering if you do.

 

that's a good article, especially when people say the LT1 head doesn't flow well. I think you'll find that if you look at a S/E car as a whole, you'll find that the most limiting factor as far as running one on the street for long is the valve spring and rings. I don't think they live well on the street. once again, talk to cnorton

 

Yeah they have a high fatigue rate but they are purpose built so that is expected. It is more of what can I take from them and apply to the street. I have been talking with im and he has given me what I was looking for.

So in summary to my exploration I find that:
Keeping the valve high in the seat is crucial, as is holding it open at lift (thats where duration plays here).
They need work to the valve guide and they need to be exactly centered. In SE they can't use a swirl polished valve, however on the street ya can
In regards to a cam, stock lift shouldn't be limited, but it doesn't need a whole lot more.Duration responds best to a close centerline. With that in mind the grind I am coming up with would look something like this: .480/.500 260/272 110 LSA installed at 106.
Should provid suitable vacuum, great throttle response and have a fat torque curve up to about 5800 rpms, right where it needs to be for a stocker. Coupled with my a4 and a 2800 stall and 3.73's, some suspension mods, it should get her done! Tell me whatcha think.

 

Gator,

I can confirm the following:

Valve position relative to the floor of the combustion chamber is a critical element. Sinking the valve seat is a sure path to a slower ET.

Bowl work in the heads helps a little. Intake and exhaust runners do not have to be a bunch bigger than 175 cc on the intake and 68 cc on the exhaust to make power. NHRA limits runner size to those specs on both Stock and S/S cars. I've run in the 9's with my Super Stocker with those runner sizes. Core heads are pretty close to the maximum, as cast.

The rule regarding the swirl-polished valve is no longer in the book nor is the limitation to a three-angle valve job.

You're on the same track as a Stocker with the cam specs. We've used those duration parameters for several years. It requires quite a bit of stall speed and gear ratio in the trans to carry that much duration out of the hole effectively but it does work. We have had good ET results with a slightly shorter duration when the car is to be set up for bad air and/or altitude racing. I would suggest discussing LT1 drag cams with Bullet Racing Cams in Olive Branch, Mississippi. They have a good handle on cams for these cars.

As the weight of the car goes up (3400#) it's worth trying a little tighter LSA and keeping the spread of LSA:ICL at around 4 degrees.

Be absolutely dead-nuts accurate in double checking the piston-to-valve clearance on these cams!! They tend to be a little tight, especially when combined with additional lift. There is a price to pay for those steep ramps and sharp corners on the lobes!

I don't have any experience with the gearing and stall with a "rate-of-lift" cam. Your plan in that aspect is outside the range of my experience but the motor should be capable of continuing to pull well over the 7000 RPM mark. Forty-five years of messing with small block Chevy motors in drag cars tells me that they run better above 3500 than they do below it, especially if they have heads that flow.

c

 

This is great Stuff. Glad to see folks talking about it out here. Keep it comeing

 

i think its possible to have a high 11 sec LT1 street car stocker...

 

I most definately agree that it's possible.

 

Do you mean "stocker" or "Stocker?" It may seem like a small distinction but when capitalized the word "Stocker" is a reference to a set of modifications that are fairly well defined and somewhat restrictive. For example, an NHRA "Stocker" may fit a class in which at ET of 11.90 would not be competitive. Cars classified in B/SA or C/SA would need to run somewhat better than high 11's to have a significant hope of winning a single round in formal competition although they could certainly be driven on the street. Truly competitive "Stockers" could conceivably be driven on the street but they would experience a significant loss of power fairly quickly and they wouldn't be simple to maintain.

If you mean "stocker" (uncapitalized) as in a car that is lightly or slightly modified but intended for street operation, then anything is possible depending on your definition of "stock." It's mostly an issue of two elements: semantics and money.

c