LS1 Aluminum driveshaft ET/HP limits
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,997
From: Reading, PA
I've seen and heard of people breaking them with 300rwhp or less, mainly M6 cars though. The LS1 ds isnt made for drag racing, they're not all that strong. In an M6 car with that hp it would probably go quick, in an A4 it might hold for a while but thats still a lot of rwhp and and a rather heavy car. I would go with something stronger.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,037
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500' elevation
The factory aluminum driveshaft is very weak. It's a thin walled tube with a cardboard insert.
If you have a lot of HP, either buy an aftermarket aluminum shaft or a good steel shaft. I use a custom made 3" diameter x .083" walled steel shaft in my race car with 1350 series u-joints. A local driveline shop made it up for me.
If you have a lot of HP, either buy an aftermarket aluminum shaft or a good steel shaft. I use a custom made 3" diameter x .083" walled steel shaft in my race car with 1350 series u-joints. A local driveline shop made it up for me.
GP Moderator
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 645
From: Columbus, Ohio
Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
The factory aluminum driveshaft is very weak. It's a thin walled tube with a cardboard insert.
The factory aluminum driveshaft is very weak. It's a thin walled tube with a cardboard insert.
Replaced it w/ a Spohn 3" steel DS. Very heavy DS, but is solid, well built, and well balanced. Might hurt me a bit in power to the ground and weight, but one less thing I have to worry about breaking.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 144
From: VA
Do ur self a favor and change the stock DS. This is what happend to mine on a 5500RPM launch on Nittos.
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...oto&PhotoID=12
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http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...oto&PhotoID=12
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...oto&PhotoID=13
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...oto&PhotoID=14
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...oto&PhotoID=15
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,935
From: Mobile, Ala..USA
All you guys that have broken them have manual tranny, or a trans brake. I know of guys here locally that have went high 10's on the aluminum shaft with an auto and a footbrake as I will have do you guys know of anyone in the 10's with an automatic and the aluminum shaft??
David
David
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 4,950
From: San Diego, CA
Another vote for the LPE shaft. It's 3.5" diameter and much thicker walled that the LS1 shaft. The yoke area is also beefed up. The 3" steel shaft would certainly be more durable, but it costs you in rotation mass.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
If you must have an Al driveshaft the Lingenfelter 3.5" shaft or Denny's HD shaft are good bets. But I would get a good steel shaft for drag racing. Denny's or Dynotech are two good sources.
Rich Krause
Rich Krause
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,935
From: Mobile, Ala..USA
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Originally posted by FLYNLOW92rs
What about a carbon fiber driveshaft, would that be even better then the steel/aluminum or is it asking for trouble with high HP numbers.....
What about a carbon fiber driveshaft, would that be even better then the steel/aluminum or is it asking for trouble with high HP numbers.....
Rich Krause
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,582
From: Louisiana, USA
well I put my stock LS1 aluminum driveshaft thru some hell this weekend and it held up. 5 10sec. passes but the car never dead hooked on any of the passes and my best 60' was 1.60 so with a dead hook the shaft might twist up but it may not. 
