quit burning up your good street tires and just buy a set of spare rims and drag radials to run at the track...

 

You mis-quoted me. I said a GOOD street tire. Let me explain. A good street tire is one that will give you good straight line traction. Typically with a low treadwear rating. For example a tire with a treadwear rating of 400 is not going to hook on the street or the track. The lower number is better. Now a good street tire like a victoracer with treadwear rating of 50 is going to hook as good or better than the SAME SIZE nitto drag radial which has a treadwear rating of 100. Now lets look at a REAL drag tire like a mickey thompson ET drag. These not only have a much softer tread compound but also allow for sidewall flex resulting in major hookage. Am I making sense now???

My car in it's current configuration will not hook at all with a drag radial and there is nothing more frustrating than having all that power and not getting it to the ground. If you want to pull some low 1.X 60-ft times then a drag radial is not going to do it for you.

 

I beg to differ. BFG drag radials have gotten me consistant 1.X 60 ft. times, and I'm in a 6 speed car.

 

I'm being misquoted again. I said LOW 1.X times for example 1.5 or less. Also let me put it this way. Same car, same setup, same day, same track. DR's netted 1.89 60ft times. ET Streets 1.69. With just the tire change you may gain 2-3 tenths or more just on the short time. Not to mention the total 1/4 mile time which is greater in this scenario. If you guys don't get it by now then you never will. And I can't help you. I just can't make it more clear than that. If you like DR's then buy them. But to me they are completely useless. Let me pass this along too:

If you are spinnin', you ain't winnin'
and if you ain't winnin', you ain't grinnin'.

There's nothing more frustrating than losing a race to a slower car because you couldn't get traction. Don't get caught singing the I can't get no traction blues.

"I can't get no..ba da da..I can't get no..ba da da..traction"

 

Let me toss in my opinion on this debate:

To answer the original question: I cut a 2.0 60 ft when my car was bone stock with the factory GSC's. I would brake it to just about 1000 rpm, then launch and "roll" on the gas to 1/2 throttle, then floor it. With an A4 you want to leave it in drive at the strip, if it shifts into OD it will slow down your E.T. You don't want a big butnout on street tires, just spin them over a few times to clear out any crap outta the tires. Also make sure you drive arounfd the water box on street tires. The fronts will pick up the water and you'll have to launch right through the water puddle, as will the other racers after you.

Now to jump in on the Drag Radial debate:

Tekprodave, a stock setup car is very different than what you are running. Slapping a set of ET street on a stock car will not result in 1.5x 60 fts.

I have experimented a great deal and will share my experience: bone stock - 2.0 60 ft, stock with Nitto DR's - 1.9 60 ft, bolt ons with SS4200 convertor on Nittos - 1.58 60ft, same setup with 15" 26X10.50 ET streets - 1.7x 60 ft.

A stock car can't hit hard enough to need the ET streets, and they actually slow you down because of the size. I just switched to a 3:73 rear on my car to pull the ET streets out of the hole. I am deployed overseas at the moment, and have not got to try them out yet. I get back in 3 weeks and will try the ET streets again and let you all know the results. I am hoping that'll be enough to get me in the 11's!

Ed

 

I had 245/50/16 street tires, reved it up to 1500 and nailed it. I got no wheel spin and got best of 2.077 60'. I tried to rev up to 1800-2000 but spun like a mother! That was funny though,I was so hard-headed I didn't want to let off and almost hit the wall! Track prep is everything! I haven't gone w/ my 285's yet, they cost too much! Hay, on the stock Z28 rims, what is the biggest ET tire I can put on the rear?

 

I just put it in OD and floored it at the light , I was gettin 2.0X 60fts before my stall and gears . Now I have to baby it or it spins halfway down the track

 

I read this teqnique in a CHP magazine a while back:

Break torque it until the converter locks up using only enough throttle to bring the engine up to the stall speed of the converter, then when its time to go keep the throttle and let off of the break only, the nose will lift up a bit and the car will move forward (obviously ) then as the nose starts to come back down feed it as much throttle as u can without spinning the tires. It takes some practice.

I use this method in my 1996 V6 and it works pretty well, I raced my friend in a 1998 (?) V6 auto and I jumped in front by about 3/4 carlength right off of the line and gradually pulled for the rest of the race, I don't know exactly how he launched though. I've never tried this method in a car with serious power (ie an ls1) but I know if I just floor my V6 off of the line it gets plenty wheelspin, with this method i get just a chirp then I'm off.

 

that is about the same tech. that i use when i drag race, but i've never tried DR's before, and i keep cutting pretty ad 60's, such as 2.3's..
Because, i'm going half throttle, and then into it regarding wheel spin.

What can i do to prevent it, and o get better 60's on street tires, because as far as I read, there are some guys here who cut 2.0XX on street tires..

 

I got a 1.95 last time out , my first tries with the stall and gears , I just rolled into the throttle REAL SLOWLY I didnt nail it till a few carlengths out. I couldnt get on it hard or it would spin halfway down the track (which it did the first time resulting in a lovely 14.8 1/4 timeslip lol , the car almost litterally stopped halfway down the track , then it shifted and scooted is *** the rest of the way ). Also go around the water box ,it helps alot. I was cutting 2.0X 60fts with these same tires but no stall or gears. I definately need better tires or DR's , I can break em loose rolling at 30 now. I cant get it to hook up to save my life . Gotta love a good stall lol .

 

so, basically you are saying that with a higher stall and street tires, vs. stock stall and street tires, i'll be getting better 60's with the stock converter.?

 

no not at all , If I could get this thing to stick off the line I bet Id get another few 10ths off. But due to traction issues and inexperience with the cars new setup I only shave a half a tenth off my 60ft. Even tho I knocked 2 tenths off my 1/8th. Ill let ya know what I run when I go back to the local 1/8th. I need to get some more practice with the new setup and launching it. I was just letting you know that I got 2.0X's with my stock stall and gears . All I did with that was put it in OD and punch it at the light .

 

[QUOTE=Z28COnrad]I read this teqnique in a CHP magazine a while back:

Break torque it until the converter locks up using only enough throttle to bring the engine up to the stall speed of the converter, then when its time to go keep the throttle and let off of the break only, the nose will lift up a bit and the car will move forward [QUOTE]

Trust me, this technique doesn't work with a 4200 Stall convertor. Not even with full BMR suspension and ET streets. Sounds good for a V6, but my LS1 stalled at 1500 stock and it had no chance of hooking launching at that RPM :-) Stock I could brake it up to about 1000 rpm.

Ed

 

So what should i do with my setup (my sig) - 2.73's and street tires
at the track... to break a 2.0-2.1 60's..

 

I would say that the very first thing that anybody trying to get a good et at the track should get is tires designed to run at the track. You'll find a huge improvement and actually explore the limits of your combo.