launch technique w/ 28" m/t
launch technique w/ 28" m/t
I've got a tci 3800 verter. 4:10, and a th400 w/ a transbrake. I was wondering with 28x10 m/t what air pressure I should start at what kind of 60' I can expect. The car made 391hp, through a th400, moser 12bolt, blah,blah,blah. The 28" are intended for the juice, but I really don't want to buy 26" right now. any suggestions?
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Re: launch technique w/ 28" m/t
How heavy is your car, how is thw weight distributed, what type of rear suspension set up do you run, etc...
Quick lesson:
When doing your burnout-start it in 2nd and shift to 3rd as soon as you get the tires rolling-this does 2 things. One it's easier on the tranny when you pull out if your a pull out of the water under throttle type of guy since once it dead hooks the shock will be trasmitted through the entire tranny since internals are now "linked" together since you in 3rd gear. Coming out in 2nd gear is just asking to blow a sprag. and 2. your wheel speed is greatly increased allowing you to keep engine rpm down which will lead to longer engine life-gearing allows tires to spin real fast and expediate time it takes to see smoke.
M/T tires especially-they work best with just a hint of smoke. Your not going to get the cool factor by refraining yourself from the big smoke show, but you dont want that-you want the tires clean and warm and all that takes is seeing a hint of smoke so watch your mirrors and pay attention to which way the wind is blowing-if your watching the drivers mirror and the wind is blowing towards passenger side you'll burnout excessivly for no reason.
Dont be one of these goobers that performs dry hop, that is just plain dumb and your wasting your tires effectiveness. Soon as you roll out of the water box-shift to neutral and clean the motor out-then put back into first and bump into the beams.
start your testing at 14psi and see how that treates you-the higher the psi the better for top end stability and the car will be faster since your not wasting energy wading up the tires.
Start your 2 step for your trans brake at 3000rpm and go up from there.
EVERYTHING will change from staging rpm to rear tire pressure when your going for that fast slip or if your setting it up for consistency, but that is another long story.
Josh
Quick lesson:
When doing your burnout-start it in 2nd and shift to 3rd as soon as you get the tires rolling-this does 2 things. One it's easier on the tranny when you pull out if your a pull out of the water under throttle type of guy since once it dead hooks the shock will be trasmitted through the entire tranny since internals are now "linked" together since you in 3rd gear. Coming out in 2nd gear is just asking to blow a sprag. and 2. your wheel speed is greatly increased allowing you to keep engine rpm down which will lead to longer engine life-gearing allows tires to spin real fast and expediate time it takes to see smoke.
M/T tires especially-they work best with just a hint of smoke. Your not going to get the cool factor by refraining yourself from the big smoke show, but you dont want that-you want the tires clean and warm and all that takes is seeing a hint of smoke so watch your mirrors and pay attention to which way the wind is blowing-if your watching the drivers mirror and the wind is blowing towards passenger side you'll burnout excessivly for no reason.
Dont be one of these goobers that performs dry hop, that is just plain dumb and your wasting your tires effectiveness. Soon as you roll out of the water box-shift to neutral and clean the motor out-then put back into first and bump into the beams.
start your testing at 14psi and see how that treates you-the higher the psi the better for top end stability and the car will be faster since your not wasting energy wading up the tires.
Start your 2 step for your trans brake at 3000rpm and go up from there.
EVERYTHING will change from staging rpm to rear tire pressure when your going for that fast slip or if your setting it up for consistency, but that is another long story.
Josh
Re: launch technique w/ 28" m/t
Look at your tread pattern after a pass. If the edges look untouched go down in pressure. What rim size are you using? If it's an 8 inch rim you won't use the whole tire either. If you were looking to optimize tire/rim combo I'd suggest at least a 10 inch rim. Gives more stability and contact.
Start with 14 psi as mentioned before. You have to start somewhere and then adjust accordingly. You can tell by the feel of the car too. Instability comes with low pressure as mentioned before. On our 67 @3100 lbs on 29x10 hoosier's we run 6-7 psi based on track conditions.
Good luck!
Start with 14 psi as mentioned before. You have to start somewhere and then adjust accordingly. You can tell by the feel of the car too. Instability comes with low pressure as mentioned before. On our 67 @3100 lbs on 29x10 hoosier's we run 6-7 psi based on track conditions.
Good luck!
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