Okay guys, I finally fit in a day in my busy college schedule to get to Atco in NJ next Sunday on the 5th. I also found out that this douchebag that has been running his mouth off about his Ford Probe will be there as well. I just want to know what I can do to get some last minute power out of my:

350 TPI
-Headerback
-Accel Coil and 8.8mm wires
-Airboxes gutted
-Throttle Body Bypass
-8* timing
-Smog Pump Delete
-BFG Radial TA 255/60/15 rear 235/60/15 front

Last owner ran it at 14.6 when it was bone stock except for coil and a muffler, and since then the car is about 250lbs lighter including my weight (he was a big guy), and has those other mods listed.

So far I was thinking:

-Timing Advance from 8* to 12* and run 92 Octane
-Remove Back Seat
-Remove Spare Tire
-Pressure in rear tires to 20psi
-Pressure in front tires to 40+psi
-Open Headers
-Running a belt that will bypass my alternator, power steering, and AC (Smog already deleted) and charging my battery in between runs with a remote charger.

The belt idea is kind of out there, but I wanted to see what you guys thought about it. I'd hope for about 2/10ths knocked off with all of that. Any other ideas?!


_Clark


EDIT: What about running seafoam through the gas tank and crankcase? Think that could benefit me too?

EDIT again: here's the belt routing I was thinking...anyone forsee any problems?

 

up.

 

Unless that probe has got some major mods, like spray. He should be about a 16.5 to 17 sec car stock. I don't think ya have to worry about getting beat.

But if you want to get more power just in case .. get some spray if ya can, but if ya can't then just work on traction. You got the power over him, the only thing he could beat ya with is if you spin and he launches perfect. Get bigger or better tires, run something like 15psi in the rear .. and get some practice with hard launches.

 

Take your air filter out before the race to get more air into the engine. Buy some air intake cleaner and take your IAT sensor out and spray half the can in there while the engine is running. This should clean everything up good. You can also delete your air silensor buy cutting a hockey puck to a shape that is easily wedged inside the opening. Or for temporary purposes just take the tube out and roll duck tape around the hole to close it off. I know these mods are ghetto but they will help a small amount and are OK for just racing at the track. Also, have you changed all your fluids yet? Oil will really help if its been awhile. Spark Plugs and synthetic tranny fluid will help a lot also.

 

Oh yeah. deffinately do as many weight mods as you can. The passenger seat is REALLY easy to take out and only takes a cupple of minutes. Four bolts. Buy bags of ice and bring a cooler to put them in so you can ice down your manifold after each run. Heat is and enemy to horsepower. If you drive your car to the track then it will be hot even before the race so ice will help out a lot. Car Craft magazine does it all the time and its been proven effective.

 

Probe has a KLZE v6 engine which is rated to 200hp, and hes got some work in it along with a clutch.

Thanks for the suggestions with the traction



Mikes: What do you mean when you refer to the "air silensor?", and yes my fluids are up to date. Also, where is the IAT located on a 1990 TPI?


Thanks guys, keep em coming!

 

That stuff is for LT1 cars. Don't think that Mike realized that you have a TPI car.

 

I know this doesn't apply to the above post since it's for an LT1 and not TPI BUT...

This kind of stuff is not OK for just racing at the track. You should NEVER use tape to seal up the donkey dick hole on the elbow. I've seen tape get sucked up into the throttle body at WOT and the car not come out of WOT.

Let me know if you'd like that to happen at the big end of the track.

 

Dont take out the fliter. Dont run open headers. Just get a good launch and the other things you listed are good. Just get creative with some weight loss in the car if you want.

 

Why not run open headers?

Any other creative ideas for weight reduction?

 

Anyone? Reasons as to why I shouldn't be running open headers? I can do it in 5 minutes...just pop off the ypipe and move it to the side and rebolt it to the opposite header flange so that its left open.

 

You'd be better off just takeing off your whole exhaust if you can. With the y-pipe and catback, thats quit a bit of weight.

 

open headers = loss of low end torque

you don't have your gears listed, but im guessing 3.23s which will need low end torque to help you launch better. When you prestage, don't do a big burnout, just spin the tires quick to clean them off. Hot street tires don't stick like you think they would.
weight reduction is good, every 100lbs = 1/10th of a second.

 

Eh, not even 3.23's, we're talking 2.73's here.

Alright then, headers stay closed...I also talked to another friend that said the same thing you did el camino.

 

Just to update, that belt routing IS working incase anyone wants to take that into consideration and use it themselves.