Drag Racing Technique Improve your track times

lakewood traction bars

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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 08:07 PM
  #16  
95Bird's Avatar
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From: Baton Rouge, la
john...its not as easy for us 6 speed guy Our setups have to be a big more "extreme" to 60' well. Remember the stock elem boys are going 1.2x and 1.3x with the z bars.

Last edited by 95Bird; Jun 10, 2003 at 08:16 PM.
Old Jun 10, 2003 | 08:51 PM
  #17  
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red
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From: Syracuse, NY, USA
OK...so if you guys are running the front of the TQ arm loose then why not just remove the TQ arm? Are the Pete-Z bars strong enough to handle the load by themselves? Basically running as a latter bar set up?
Old Jun 11, 2003 | 09:29 PM
  #18  
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From: Raceland,KY
Pics?

Anyone have any pics of the Z bar setup? What price for the Z bars?

Thanks
Travis
Old Jun 11, 2003 | 09:34 PM
  #19  
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From: Hanover, MA
You can order then directly from Appletree Enterprises, they make the bars. They're near Buffalo, NY.
1-315-483-6412 is their number.
Old Jun 11, 2003 | 10:23 PM
  #20  
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From: Shelby, NC
I will add that Pete is a very nice guy and good to deal with too.

On my Firebird I tested with the torque arm out, but found that the car left smoother with it installed. I have about 1/2" of movement before the torque arm hits a rubber stop.

Daren
Old Jun 12, 2003 | 12:49 AM
  #21  
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From: Baton Rouge, la
Originally posted by GUMP
I will add that Pete is a very nice guy and good to deal with too.

On my Firebird I tested with the torque arm out, but found that the car left smoother with it installed. I have about 1/2" of movement before the torque arm hits a rubber stop.

Daren
Daren..can you tell me what you used for your setup at the front of your torque arm to give you the room to adjust your Pinion angle.

tim
Old Jun 12, 2003 | 01:04 PM
  #22  
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From: Shelby, NC
Tim,

I built a crossmember from square tubing that bolts to the bottom of my subframe connectors, this way when the torque arm "hits" the connectors distribute the load. The torque arm is an Edelbrock unit with the front replaced with a solid piece of steel. On top of the crossmember is a loop made from rectangular tubing that surrounds the torque arm. I first set the pinion angle using the Z-bars and then put a rubber stopper in the top of the loop that is 1/2" above the torque arm at standstill. I have my Z-bars set evenly and adjust preload with an air bag. I also have a large rear sway bar.

Daren
Old Jun 12, 2003 | 06:29 PM
  #23  
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
I would love to see some pics of this and now how much it cost. Im have stock suspension. Exept for subframes, Lakewood LCA, And I cut my stock springs I my best 60 foot has been a 1.565. Sounds like this might help me out.
Old Jun 12, 2003 | 09:21 PM
  #24  
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From: Hanover, MA
Daren,
I give mine about 1 to 1-1/2" free movement above the rest position and about a 1/2" below it. I'm still using my stock solid torque arm but it has been reinforced the full length of the arm. Are you using the South Side lca/s? The rest of my setup is same as yours. These are def the best money I've spent on this car by far. Last 5 times out my 60's have ranged from 1.48 to 1.51 with my bracket motor, as ref its best et is 11.26 at 115.xx. Always cool out 60'ing a mid 10 sec car, lol.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:51 AM
  #25  
GUMP's Avatar
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From: Shelby, NC
My lower control arms are the old Competition Engineering ones.
As a side note, on my new Camaro I went with BMR control arms and torque arm and also have gotten them to work pretty well.
I feel that it is really more about how you set up your suspension that counts. I have had a bunch of different set-ups on my cars and have eventually made them all work about the same. Some of them just didn't survive as long!

Daren
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