Just ordered some BFG Drag Radials....
Just ordered some BFG Drag Radials....
What is the best way to utilize these tires on the drag strip:
1. Tire PSI
2. Using the A4
3. Any tips from the experts...
Thanks!
1. Tire PSI
2. Using the A4
3. Any tips from the experts...
Thanks!
Last edited by Texas_96_Z; Dec 13, 2006 at 01:39 PM.
When I ran BFGs at the track my car was a M6. Depending on the track conditions I generally had about 20 pounds in them. You may want to start there and then go either up or down depending on how your car reacts at the launch.
The goal is to have the entire surface of the drag radial flat against the track at the point when you are producing the most amount of launch shock. Radials tend to cup if they have too little pressure and if that happens you can start to spin. If they have too much pressure they will not deflect the launch efectively and you will spin.
One of the major factors will be in how your car transfers weight from the front to the rear. The faster the weight transfer the more air you will need to prevent cupping. However too much air will will also create spin so you will need to do some testing to determine the correct amount of air for your car.
You will definitely want to be "in the groove" at the launch. Drag radials wook fine but are very sensitive to track changes as their sidewalls are not forgiving like a slick or bias ply ET Street.
They do like a little heat. Not too much, but they definitely like to be warmed up so do a decent burnout but avoid a big smoke show, except for the first time as they do need to be broken in.
The more you drive them on the street the less effective they will be at the track. If the rim width is matched exactly to the footprint width you will have better luck with them.
Oh yea... Avoid the rain. The tread depth is shallow and they will hydroplane easily.
The goal is to have the entire surface of the drag radial flat against the track at the point when you are producing the most amount of launch shock. Radials tend to cup if they have too little pressure and if that happens you can start to spin. If they have too much pressure they will not deflect the launch efectively and you will spin.
One of the major factors will be in how your car transfers weight from the front to the rear. The faster the weight transfer the more air you will need to prevent cupping. However too much air will will also create spin so you will need to do some testing to determine the correct amount of air for your car.
You will definitely want to be "in the groove" at the launch. Drag radials wook fine but are very sensitive to track changes as their sidewalls are not forgiving like a slick or bias ply ET Street.
They do like a little heat. Not too much, but they definitely like to be warmed up so do a decent burnout but avoid a big smoke show, except for the first time as they do need to be broken in.
The more you drive them on the street the less effective they will be at the track. If the rim width is matched exactly to the footprint width you will have better luck with them.
Oh yea... Avoid the rain. The tread depth is shallow and they will hydroplane easily.
ET Streets are a bias ply "slick" with a couple of thin grooves to make it technically DOT legal.
ET Street Radials are actually drag radials, and are also DOT compliant.
Both tires generally hook well at the track. The radials would be preferred if you plan on driving to and from the track on them. I have driven on ET streets (not the radials), once in awhile on the street in good weather. The sidewalls are very thin to facilitate wrinking at the launch, and the rubber is very thin, and with just a bit of dew on the surface they will hydroplane at about 24 miles per hour.
The drag radials are also intended for track use and caution should be taken in wet weather. The rubber compound is soft and will wear out quickly if you drive on the street a lot.
People who are serious about racing will generally change wheels/tires at the track. People who want to hook up at the track with better than regular tires but only go a few times a year can often get by with either ET Streets or ET Street radials. If you have to drive a hundred miles one way to the closest 1/4 mile track, radials are a much better option than bias ply.
ET Street Radials are actually drag radials, and are also DOT compliant.
Both tires generally hook well at the track. The radials would be preferred if you plan on driving to and from the track on them. I have driven on ET streets (not the radials), once in awhile on the street in good weather. The sidewalls are very thin to facilitate wrinking at the launch, and the rubber is very thin, and with just a bit of dew on the surface they will hydroplane at about 24 miles per hour.
The drag radials are also intended for track use and caution should be taken in wet weather. The rubber compound is soft and will wear out quickly if you drive on the street a lot.
People who are serious about racing will generally change wheels/tires at the track. People who want to hook up at the track with better than regular tires but only go a few times a year can often get by with either ET Streets or ET Street radials. If you have to drive a hundred miles one way to the closest 1/4 mile track, radials are a much better option than bias ply.
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