I want to top 100mph, but I don't know if I'll be able to. The best I've done so far is like a 14.9@97.

Our elevation is 4600 I think, but I have heard last time I ran it was corrected to like 7000, however that works. I also had slow 60' times, like around 2.6, so obviously less wheel spin will help.

any hints/tips/suggestions? my goal is to beat my best by at least 3 mph.

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2001 Camaro SS #C095 CDRA Secret Street #R675
Light Pewter Metallic
M6, T-Tops, Ebony Leather
Appearance: Alpena Pedals, 15% Tint (Side & Rear), SLP Car Cover.

 

I was considering going myself but haven't decided yet. I need a bit of track time after having my heads redone.

So far conditions tonight look very good. The barometric pressure has been rising all day the the cooler temperatures will really help. It's going to depend if there's any track prep done. The jet cars are coming in tomorrow night as well as a wheelstander.

Race City claims to be 3500 feet but the actual elevation is 3350. At mid day today the DA is only 4000 feet. For here that's a good day. Most race days we hover around 5000 feet.

I was in Yakima last weekend. 1100 feet elevation and the DA got up to 2200. People were complaining about the bad air and I thought it was great. I made my best passes there.

I'm assuming you've joined the CDRA with the C095 number. You don't need to keep using the R675 number then.

Yes you really need to control that wheel spin. 2.6x is killing you off the line however I doubt it will affect your top end MPH enough to give you that extra 3 mph. If you have to, pull the passenger and rear seats out tonight. Remove everything you can to make the car lighter.

That 100mph decal is just so close

I have a couple of new pics on my web site from Yakima.

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Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car

87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.099
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.7
Best corrected ET: 10.983

Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 480
Best 60 foot: 1.508
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

[This message has been edited by Stephen 87 IROC (edited September 13, 2002).]

 

No, I haven't joined the CDRA, outside of getting my secret street number. The C095 is my car's build number. Canadian build numbers have a C followed by three numbers, Americans just use 4 numbers. I just have that CDRA secret street there because, well I guess I am a secret street member, am I not? Hmm wonder how much of a bitch it is to pull the seats, and if it really will help that much. I suppose the worst that can happen is I'll be able to clean under there.

 

Secret Street isn't really part of the CDRA. It's just that many of the Secret Street racers who want to drag race for competion have joined the CDRA. CDRA members who go out on Friday night are there to help anyone who has questions about what to do. As long as they're not busy woking on their cars, most will answer anything you need to ask.

Secret Street is just Race City's street legal program.

I used to go on Friday nights regularly with my truck. Now that I bracket race, the Friday night's crowd just gets annoying. Too many kids with their toys and they have no idea or consideration when in the pits. Drag cars need their pit space and when some spectator parks in their pit while they're making a pass just annoys me.

If you pay for the weekend pass, $50, you can race for free tonight, get in to race tomorrow night and Sunday and get to see the jet cars run tomorrow night.

Your Secret Street number is only good for this season. Next year you'll probably be given a new number. To my knowledge nobody uses C095 as a CDRA number. Join the CDRA, $40/year to compete for points or $25/year for an associate number and take C095 as a permanent number that you can use during Secret Street also.

The passenger seat is only 4 nuts that hold it to the floor.

[This message has been edited by Stephen 87 IROC (edited September 13, 2002).]

 

yeah, like I said, C095 has nothing to do with my drag racing. it is the build number of my car, as in it was the 95th Canadian SS to roll off the factory in 2001.

I've been busy tearing apart my interior. I've ripped everything out, except the back piece for the rear seats. I got all the bolts out, but the seatbelts are held to the side by a plastic bracket, and the screws are some kindof six-star pattern, so I can't get it off. I'm kindof stumped for now. for my passenger seat, which also has the bracket, it was just philips head screws. Not sure if I'm doing this right though, maybe I'm supposed to be disconnecting the seat belt somewhere else. The passenger seat rear bolts where a pain in the ***! I don't think I'll be able to mount it back in without buying a small 13mm wrench. i used a socket to get them out but it barely fit. I'll also pull out my jack & spare, and stage 1 weight reduction will be complete

Also do you think doing a burnout will help on regular Eagle F1's? I've heard it won't. I've actually never done the burnout, I just sit there until he tells me to move ahead. I just never want to try it with a manual, in case I screw it up.

 

Those 6 star screws are Torx. The seat belts "should" be T45 but may be T50. Parts source, NAPA, Auto Value all carry the socket required.

But you can use the C095 number as a unique number claiming it as your car's number. Many of the other members pick common numbers. I've held C454 for 5 years now.

Race City's burnout box is well set up. With any street tires you don't want to go through the water. It stays in the tread and will drip down on the starting line and you'll just spin. They sweep all the dirt, rubber and water to the outside. When you get waved up from the head of staging, drive around towards the inside. This way you don't drive through the junk they sweep to the outside. Once around the water box you can back up a little bit but stay out of the water. When they wave you to start a burnout just do a short dry hop. Just enough to spin the wheels to clean off any rocks or water then roll up to the staging line.

Street tires especially high speed ones are designed not to heat up. Trying to do a burnout with them does nothing for traction. Make sure you have at least 32 psi in the rear tires. They may even work better with 35 psi.

From the looks of the weather still it should be a good night for racing. I still doubt I'll be going though. Just too many headaches for me with a race car. I'll go Saturday night when they at least put some traction compound down.

 

I've got 38 psi in the tires now. I think once I tryed driving around the burnout box, and the guy came up to my window and said "pay attention to me, I'll guide you in" and I said "well I don't want to do a burnout" and he's like "yeah but next time just watch me" so I thought ok whatever I'll drive through the box if it makes you happy.

but ya thanks for all the tips. I'll post later tonight on how it goes.

oh and ive got the back piece out now, it was a Torx 30 I needed. 45 is for that larger one connecting it to the floor, but that does no good because you can't fit the latch part through that plastic bracket, So I just used a 30 and took the bracket off the seat.

 

If you don't have slicks there's no reason to be forced into the water. The next time they force you through or into the water box just stop at the tower on the return road and go talk to Lynn and explain to her that you're being forced through the water box when you don't want water on your street tires.

 

Well, I did it. I have aquired the sacred sticker

You know what I was doing wrong? shifting into 4th. On my first pass I went into 4th, just before the trap, and my tach still had room to spare. I pulled a 97 there. Then on my second pass, I just left it in third, it went right up to 6k at the same instant I finished, and I pulled a 100. So the next two after that I just stayed in third.

So my previous best was like 14.9@97...

1. 14.531@97.36
2. 14.652@100.14
3. 14.586@100.60
4. 14.946@100.10

that last one kinda sucked, I had wheel spin all the way through first gear. But I definately improved somewhere, I think it was just a combination of dropping that weight and staying in third. but oddly enough my best ET was when I used 4th gear

 

I had a good night tonight too. The Stang ran a it's best at Racecity:

13.358/106.57 on BFG DR's with a 1.97 60'.
With some slicks..12's maybe...??

Alan


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1995 Mustang GTS.
357 RWHP
383 RWTQ.

2001 Focus SE
Faster than a speeding prairie dog !!

[This message has been edited by yyc95gts (edited September 14, 2002).]

 

You must have some serious mods under the hood. Tonight, I roasted a new stang by over a full second.

your 60' times are awesome. That's the next thing I need to work on, because my best 60' is 2.422, and that is horrible. I tend to lay a lot of rubber in my launch, and if not that, I give it too much clutch too early, and I bog down. I have yet to attain a perfect launch. I've done it on the street, but for some reason I can't on the track.