Expecting 12-flat E.T.'s --> What Driveshaft Do I Need?
12-01-2002, 07:56 AM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Groton, CT - Moving to Jax, FL in 2004
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Expecting 12-flat E.T.'s --> What Driveshaft Do I Need?
Hey guys,
This spring I am expecting to pick things up a bit on the '95 and hopefully lower my ET with the addition of heads/cam combo. After both seeing these head/cam cars at the track and checking various boards & other resources, I'm not gonna set my sights too high and assume I'll probably be clicking ET's in the 12-flat range, especially since I'll probably continue to run on my RAM clutch/BFG Drags setup. The Moser 12-bolt is next w/4.11's, but what is my best best as far as driveshafts go? I could care less about weight...What will get the job done without expected breakage?
Thanks, Cheers!
This spring I am expecting to pick things up a bit on the '95 and hopefully lower my ET with the addition of heads/cam combo. After both seeing these head/cam cars at the track and checking various boards & other resources, I'm not gonna set my sights too high and assume I'll probably be clicking ET's in the 12-flat range, especially since I'll probably continue to run on my RAM clutch/BFG Drags setup. The Moser 12-bolt is next w/4.11's, but what is my best best as far as driveshafts go? I could care less about weight...What will get the job done without expected breakage?
Thanks, Cheers!
12-01-2002, 10:18 AM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Dover DE
Posts: 1,620
Im running a LS1 driveshaft in my low 11 sec car..........i know it's asking for trouble.......
If you want strong and a lifetime warranty,get a Denny's driveshaft. 1 of the best in the business,they sell for around 350-400.
If you want strong and a lifetime warranty,get a Denny's driveshaft. 1 of the best in the business,they sell for around 350-400.
12-01-2002, 11:39 AM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500' elevation
Posts: 2,037
I ran a stock driveshaft deep into the 11's with no problems. I only invested in a new shaft when I added a transbrake to the transmission.
It's not the driveshaft that's the weak link but the small u-joints. Upgrade to a 3" x .083" steel shaft and change all the yokes to use 1350 series u-joints.
It's not the driveshaft that's the weak link but the small u-joints. Upgrade to a 3" x .083" steel shaft and change all the yokes to use 1350 series u-joints.
12-03-2002, 10:02 AM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Fort Myers Florida
Posts: 1,326
Originally posted by justahoe
I'm trying to get a LPE aluminum ds gp going if you are interested. From what I've heard they are one of the best out there.
I'm trying to get a LPE aluminum ds gp going if you are interested. From what I've heard they are one of the best out there.
I'm going back to steel this winter with a Spohn extreme with 1350 joints ($315).
12-03-2002, 01:12 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Vienna, WV, USA
Posts: 183
That is part of the problem. These guy get an ls1 aluminum ds and think it a great piece, its not. From what I've seen they are about like a pop can, not very strong. The LPE piece is much thicker and larger in dia then the ls1, the LPE is 3 1/2 where the ls1 is like 2 1/2 or 3 in. That's my .02
its not. From what I've seen they are about like a pop can, not very strong. The LPE piece is much thicker and larger in dia then the ls1, the LPE is 3 1/2 where the ls1 is like 2 1/2 or 3 in. That's my .02
12-06-2002, 07:56 AM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: High Ridge, MO
Posts: 349
Based on the info provided, I think I'm gonna stick with the one I have, I've already upgraded Ujoints twice, and until the Moser 12-bolt goes in, I'll stick it out. After that, Denny's Driveshaft is getting a call from me, as I'll probably make the move from BFG Drags to ET Streets. 
Thanks for your help and info guys!
Thanks for your help and info guys!
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